Boat Anchoring Types and Techniques

As a charter boat captain, I frequently anchor in 300-plus feet of water. Having the proper anchor setup saves time and frustration on the water. If the anchor does not hold or slides when setting the anchor it results in extra work and lost fishing time. Fishing boat anchors hold the boat over the best fishing spots. For sailboats and boats that stay on anchor overnight, anchors are a critical piece of safety equipment.

Boat anchors are a must-have piece of equipment on all boats. Anchor setups do not have to be complicated or expensive but do have to be sized appropriately. The length of rope, length of chain, and size of anchor all must be taken into account for the anchor to properly hold the boat in place. Anchor retrieval methods and anchor storage locations are also important things to think about when buying a boat anchor.

I have hand-pulled many anchors but for anchors set deeper than 50 feet having an anchor retrieval system is certainly preferred. An electric winch called a windlass is the easiest way to retrieve an anchor. An anchor buoy with an anchor ball ring also works well and will be discussed in this article.

Depending on the size of the boat, the bottom structure, and the depth of water will determine the best actor for the situation. Here are some of the most common boat anchor types.

Common Boat Anchor Types and Their Applications

best boat anchor types bruce claw cqr plow delta wing danforth fluke anchors

The most common boat anchors include the Bruce/Claw, Danforth/Fluke, Delta/Wing, and CQR/Plow designs. These anchors have two names because they were once protected with patents and trademarks. These have expired, and some manufacturers use the original names while others use the common anchor names. Because these anchors can be built by multiple manufacturers, the cost is much lower than newer patented anchors.

best anchors types for kayaks canoes paddleboards and small boats

For small boats like kayaks, canoes, and paddle boards, small anchors that weigh 1.5 pounds to 8 pounds can be used. The best anchor type will depend on the bottom structure and the amount of holding power needed. Lightweight claw or fluke anchors are commonly used on small boats. These small anchors can be stored with anchor rope and chain in a bag or small bin.

Most anchors come in galvanized steel and stainless steel. Stainless steel costs more, and the advantages are mostly cosmetic. Stainless steel looks better and is less susceptible to rust. For small anchors, the price difference is not significant, but for large anchors, stainless steel gets quite expensive. Anchors can also be made of aluminum, which does not corrode easily but is too lightweight for proper holding power. I generally don’t recommend aluminum anchors.


Anchor Types and Their Characteristics

 Bruce or Claw

This is my favorite type of anchor and one of the most popular for fishing boats and recreational vessels. I’ve used this anchor to keep 40-foot dive boats in place on sandy bottoms in the Florida Keys. I also used it in Alaska to anchor in around 400 feet of water for halibut fishing without any problems with the anchor sliding or coming loose.

Bruce or Claw Anchor Galvanized Steel

This Bruce anchor was used on my boat in Sitka Alaska
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There are two main reasons I like this anchor. First, it holds well in most bottoms that I’ve used it in, including sand, gravel, dirt, mud, and rocky bottoms. Because it doesn’t have a sharp point, it could struggle on hard bottoms like hard dirt or clay. Some testing shows that other anchors have more holding power in specific conditions, but these tests are very dependent on the type of bottom. Fortunately, most lake and ocean bottoms are soft and suitable for the claw anchor.

The second reason I like the claw anchor is that it can easily be rigged with a breakaway system for situations where the anchor gets stuck. The anchor chain is tied to the front of the anchor with several wraps of thin rope or zip ties. If the anchor gets stuck, a large force will break the thin rope, and the anchor chain then pulls from the back of the anchor, freeing it.

For average anchoring conditions, I recommend:

  • 6-pound anchor for boats under 16 feet
  • 11-pound anchor for boats 17-25 feet
  • 22-pound anchor for boats 26-32 feet
  • 33-pound anchor for boats 33-40 feet

The best size will vary based on boat weight and intended anchoring conditions.

Bruce or Claw Anchor Stainless Steel

stainless steel bruce boat anchor claw anchor
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The stainless steel claw anchor comes in all the same sizes as the galvanized steel version and four larger sizes. The large sizes are 55 pounds, 66 pounds, 110 pounds, and 176 pounds.

In the video below I show how to retrieve an anchor using an anchor ball ring. Also how to rig a claw anchor with a breakaways system is shown. This allows the anchor to be retrieved even when it is stuck.


Danforth or Fluke

Fluke anchors are the most popular for boats under 20 feet in length. This is a low-cost option commonly used on boats that only anchor occasionally. Fluke anchors can lay flat, making storage easier than most other anchor types. They can be stored on bow rollers but are often more difficult to work with compared to other styles.

This anchor has a large surface area and can drift with the chain twisted if the descent rate is too fast. When on the seafloor, the anchor doesn’t roll right side up like most anchors but rather flips down into the ground regardless of which side it lands on. Fluke anchors work best in soft bottoms and sand. When anchoring in rocks, these anchors can get stuck and frequently get bent during retrieval.

The chain on fluke anchors can be set to have a breakaway connection at the front and a permanent connection at the back. Most fluke anchors don’t use a breakaway connection as the chain may get in the way of the fluke movement. If a breakaway setup is used, the chain should be pulled tight along the main arm.

For typical anchoring conditions:

  • 4-pound anchor works for boats under 15 feet
  • 8-pound anchor works for boats between 16 and 20 feet
  • 13-pound anchor works for boats between 21-25 feet

Danforth or Fluke Anchor Galvanized Steel

Danforth anchor and chain stored in an egg crate
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This Seachoice fluke anchor comes in three sizes 4 pounds, 8 pounds, and 13 pounds. The 4-pound anchor works under typical anchoring conditions for boats under 15 feet. The 8-pound works for boats between 16 and 20 feet. The 13-pound anchor work for boats between 21-25 feet. I would not recommend using the standard low-cost cheap fluke anchors on boats over 25 feet. I have seen thick custom-built fluke anchors that were used on 50-plus foot commercial vessels. Bass Pros Shops has a similar fluke anchor.

Fluke anchors are an attractive option mostly because of their cost and availability. Properly setting up an anchor takes time and effort and you usually get what you pay for. Personally, I would look at other anchor options if you are trying to get an anchor system that will last. Fluke anchors have their place and work alright which is why they are widely used. If they get bent or stuck on the bottom, replacing the anchor does not break the bank. The process of getting a new anchor does continue though.

Fluke Stern Anchor with Rope and Chain

stern anchor kit
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This 7-pound fluke anchor comes rigged with 50 feet of rope and anchor chain. In shallow water for boats under 15 feet in length, this anchor should work well. This anchor setup is widely used as a stern anchor. A stern anchor is tied to the back cleat of the boat to keep the boat from swaying back and forth. Bass Pro Shops has a similar 8-pound fluke anchor kit with chain and rope.

Stern anchors are typically used when parked next to other boats near the shore. The back of the boat faces the shore and the anchor is set in very shallow water. The bow anchor line and the stern anchor lines are pulled tight to prevent the boat from swaying. Setting the boat is shallow water can allow people to walk to shore without having to jump in and swim.

If you like boats as much as I do you enjoy walking around harbors and marinas checking out all the boats. In the youtube video below I walked around two marinas in Sitka Alaska and check out the different boat anchor types. Boat anchors on small skiffs, sailboats, charter boats, and even large commercial vessels were discussed. Hopefully seeing the different anchor styles and sizes will help when getting a new boat anchor.


Delta or Wing

The delta or wing anchor is commonly used by boats over 20 feet in length and on sailboats. Testing has shown the delta anchor holds extremely well under certain conditions. This anchor performs well on all bottom types except rocky bottoms.

The delta anchor is better at holding in hard clay and hard mud than the claw anchor. Testing has shown that the delta anchor held significantly less weight with a 3:1 ratio of depth to scope compared to a 5:1 scope ratio. This could be a drawback when anchoring deep but can likely be overcome by increasing the length of the anchor chain.

Delta Anchor Galvanized Steel

Delta or wing anchor on a large sailboat with a windless
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The delta anchor comes in sizes of 9 pounds, 14 pounds,  22 pounds, and 35 pounds. This is an excellent anchor option when the anchor can be stored on bow rollers. Otherwise, this anchor is an awkward shape and difficult to store. This is a mid-cost anchor that is sturdy and has high holding power. This is likely why this is such a widely used anchor type.

Delta or Wing Anchor Stainless Steel

stainless steel delta wing boat anchor
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The stainless steel version of the delta anchor comes in sizes of 13 pounds, 22 pounds, 33 pounds, 44 pounds, 55 pounds, 66 pounds, and 110 pounds. Anchors can last many years and having a stainless steel anchor with less rust could be worth the extra money.


CQR or Plow

The CQR is a plow anchor similar to the delta anchor. The major difference is the CQR has a hinge connecting the arm and scoop of the anchor. This hinge helps prevent the anchor from getting dislodged in changing winds and tides. These anchors are typically very heavy and are a good option only when they can be stored in bow rollers.

CQR or Plow Anchor Galvanized Steel

CQR plow anchor example on a large sailboat
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The norestar galvanized steel CQR anchor comes in sizes of 26 pounds, 35 pounds, 48 pounds, and 59 pounds. This is a popular anchor style for sailboats. The third-party study showed that it did not do well in the hard seabed of the testing area. This is a popular tried and true anchor that does work well in most seabeds.

CQR or Plow Anchor Stainless Steel

stainless steel cqr plow boat anchor
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The stainless steel CQR comes in sizes of 26 pounds, 35 pounds, 48.5 pounds, and 59.5 pounds. This is very similar to the galvanized steel version. The anchor chain can be permanently mounted in the back with breakaway ties securing the anchor chain in the front. This would pull the anchor from the back in the event the anchor was stuck and the front breakaway lines broke free. The front chain can be connected around the front loop with rope or zip ties. Most CQR anchors I have seen being used do not implement the breakaway setup and connect the chain directly to the front loop.


Specialized Anchor Designs

Box Anchor

box anchor
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The box anchor comes in four sizes, baby, small, large, and extra-large. The anchor comes in galvanized steel or stainless steel. Bass Pros Shops has a similar folding box anchor.

This anchor is a unique design and many people recommend getting this anchor. My friend has this anchor and said his pontoon boat did not budge in like 70 miles per hour wind. This is an exaggeration I am sure but he does love this anchor.

This anchor has two big advantages over conventional anchors. First, it does not require a chain. Not having an anchor chain means the overall anchor setup should be lighter and easier to retrieve.  Second, only a 2-to-1 scope is needed. The scope is the ratio of anchoring depth to anchor line set out. This low scope value means less rope is needed for the anchor setup.

Pontoon boats and lake boats typically do have bow rollers which are convenient to hold a conventional anchor. When bow rollers are not on a boat the box anchor is a great choice. Not having to store a large amount of rope and an anchor chain on the deck of the boat is nice. The anchor also folds to lay flat which is convenient for storing the anchor.

The box anchor can not land upside down because both sides have cleats that dig into the ground. For people, that hand pull their anchor this is also a good option. Once the boat is vertical with the anchor this is not much holding the anchor into the ground and should come off the bottom easily.

The baby box anchor is 7 X 18 inches and weighs 14 pounds. It can hold jet skis and small boats under 16 feet.  The small box anchor is 8.5 X 22 inches and weighs 21 pounds. It can hold boats ranging from 18 to 30 feet. The large box anchor is 25 X 9.5 inches and weighs 26 pounds. It can hold boats up to 40 feet. The extra-large box anchor is 30 X 11 inches and weighs 40 pounds. It can hold large and heavy boats greater than 32 feet.

The disadvantage of a box anchor is that it does not work well with an anchor ball ring or windlass. This means the box anchor will always have to be retrieved by hand.


Modern Anchors: Rocna, Vulcan, Mantus, and Spade

Rocna Boat Anchors

Launched in 2004, designed by New Zealand sailor Peter Smith. They have a self-righting roll bar and a sharp point for fast setting and high holding power.

Rocna Anchor Galvanized Steel

rocan boat anchor
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The galvanized steel Rocna anchor comes in sizes of 9 pounds, 13 pounds, 22 pounds, 33 pounds, 55 pounds, 73 pounds, and 606 pounds. One-third of the anchor’s weight is on the fluke tip which comes to a sharp chisel-like point. This ensures a solid fast set even in hard seabeds.

The Rocna Fisherman anchor is similar to the Rocna but has a shackle rail that helps when recovering a stuck anchor. The chain on the Rocna could be permanently attached near the back of the anchor with a breakaway on the front. This would also help when the anchor is stuck.

Rocna Anchor Stainless Steel

rocan stainless steel boat anchor
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The stainless steel Rocna anchor comes in sizes of  13 pounds, 22 pounds, 33 pounds, 55 pounds, 88 pounds, and 121 pounds.


Vulcan Boat Anchor

The Vulcan boat anchor is made by the Rocna anchor company. This new design offers the high holding power fast setting performance of the Rocna but without the roll-bar. This allows the anchor to fit better on many bowrollers. This anchor does work well with windlass anchor systems. I do not think the anchor would easily slide onto an anchor ball ring so I would not recommend using it with an anchor buoy. If you are spending this much money on an anchor you can likely afford a windlass on the boat and this would not be a problem.

Vulcan Anchor Galvanized Steel

rocna vulcan boat anchor
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The galvanized steel Vulcan comes in sizes of 9 pounds, 13 pounds, 20 pounds, 27 pounds, 44 pounds, 55 pounds, 88 pounds, and 121 pounds. This anchor does have a location at the back for the anchor for the chain to be permanently attached. This makes it so the anchor can be rigged with a breakaway setup.

Vulcan Anchor Stainless Steel

rocna vulcan stainless steel boat anchor
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The stainless steel Vulcan comes in sizes of 9 pounds, 13 pounds, 20 pounds, 27 pounds, 44 pounds, and 73 pounds. The anchor is identical to the galvanizes steel version but is made with stainless steel.


Mantus Anchor

Another new plow anchor style, built from steel plates with no cast parts. The anchor has a large roll bar for self-righting even in soft seabeds. According to the company, this anchor sets faster and deeper than other tested anchors. It can also be disassembled for storage. Mantus also offers an M2 version without the roll bar for easier bow roller storage.

Mantus Anchor Galvanized Steel

mantus boat anchor
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The galvanized steel Mantus anchor comes in sizes of 8 pounds, 13 pounds, 17 pounds, 25 pounds, 35 pounds, 55 pounds, 65 pounds, 85 pounds, 101 pounds, 125 pounds, 155 pounds, and 175 pounds.  This is a high-end anchor style that is set at a moderate price.

Mantus Anchor Stainless Steel

mantus boat anchor stainless steel
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The stainless steel Mantus anchor comes in sizes of 2 pounds, 17 pounds, 35 pounds, 55 pounds, 155 pounds, and 175 pounds. This anchor is significantly more expensive than its galvanizes steel counterpart.


9. Spade Boat Anchor

spade boat anchor
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The spade boat anchor comes in galvanized steel, stainless steel, and aluminum. Anchor sizes are given in both weight and surface area. For example, the S40 is 400 square centimeters.  According to the company, the anchor will have the same holding power based on the area of the anchor regardless of the material it is made out of. This is probably generally true but a heavier anchor will likely set better in hard seabeds.

The spade company is based in Palm Bay Florida. The spade anchor was the first concave single fluke design and the company started selling this anchor in 1990. The anchor has 50 percent of its weight at the tip of the anchor. This is good for digging into hard seabeds and this anchor is known for working well in grass, mud, and sand.

The galvanized steel spade anchor sizes are 12 pounds, 21 pounds, 33 pounds, 44 pounds, 55 pounds, 66 pounds, 77 pounds, 99 pounds, 121 pounds, 165 pounds, and 243 pounds. The stainless steel spade anchor weights are the same as the galvanized steel anchors.

The aluminum spade anchors sizes are 6 pounds, 10 pounds, 15 pounds, 26 pounds, 41 pounds, and 57 pounds. The aluminum anchor would be a good option when hand pulling the anchor and using it in soft seabeds.


Lightweight Anchors for Small Craft

Mushroom Anchor

mushroom anchor for kayaks canoes paddleboards and small boats
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The mushroom anchor comes in sizes of 8 pounds, 10 pounds, 15 pounds, and 20 pounds. The anchor is made of PVC-coated steel. This anchor is great for kayaks, canoes, paddle boards, inflatable boats, and small Jon boats. These are great for anchoring in thick weeds or muddy bottoms where it can be quickly set and retrieved. Also, these bottoms allow the anchor more gripping power. This anchor does not permanently hold the boat in one location and should not be used for safety-critical situations.

An anchor chain is not typically used with a mushroom anchor. An oversized clip similar to a carabiner is placed through the top loop of the anchor which is connected to the anchor rope. A minimal scope is set out with this style anchor. The anchor has holes in the bottom which allow mud and sand to fill the anchor. After retrieval, any mud or sand remaining on the anchor should be shaken off before bringing it onboard the vessel.

There are also mushroom anchors with long shafts that get buried into hard ground to create permanent mournings.


River Anchor

river anchor for kayaks canoes paddleboards and small boats
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This river anchor is an 8-pound PVC coated steel anchor.  The anchor does not have high holding power but will stop the boat from drifting in light winds and light currents. This anchor is good for kayaks, canoes, paddle boards, small boats, pontoon boats, and even bass boats. The anchor deploys quickly and retrieves quickly.

An oversized clip on the anchor rope attaches to the top loop of the anchor. An anchor chain is not needed. The ears on the river anchor allow mud and sand to fill over the top of the anchor. Mud and sand come off easier with the river anchor compared to the mushroom anchor. When fishing these anchors are typically set into the water quietly to not spook fish in the area. A minimal scope is set out on this style anchor which makes anchor retrieval fast and easy.


Grapnel Anchor

grapnel folding anchor for kayaks canoes paddleboards and small boats
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The grapnel anchor comes in sizes of 1.5 pounds, 3.5 pounds, and 5.5 pounds. This is likely the best anchor option for kayaks, canoes, paddle boards, and inflatable boats. This small anchor setup is perfect when space is limited as the anchor and rope is easily stored in a storage bag.

Finishes for the anchor include painted galvanized steel and stainless steel. Included with the anchor is a 25-foot hollow polythene anchor line attached to a marker buoy and steel snap hook. The entire anchor setup comes in a reusable nylon storage bag. Some of these setups are rigged with an anchor chain and some have the anchor rope directly tied to the anchor. The anchor chain will increase the holding capabilities of the anchor but the setup will be heavier.


Sand in a Bag Anchor

sand anchor
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SandSak portable sand anchor is a dry bag that also works as an anchor when it is filled with sand. This is a clever way to make an anchor for kayaks, surfboards, paddle boards, inflatable boats, and jet skies. The anchor comes with a 12-foot-long braided floating rope with a buoy and steel clip. This bag holds approximately 50 pounds of sand. There is a handle on the bottom of the bag so the sand can easily be dumped out.

The top of the bag has plastic clips and rings that hold the metal clip which is attached to the anchor line.  This works great for a beach bag and then doubles for an anchor. This is not intended to be a strong boat anchor but certainly can be practical. Attach this anchor to innertubes or paddle boards in shallow water and simply float and relax without drifting away. This bag full of sand could also be placed on the shore to act as a stern anchor for small boats. Wearing an inflatable life jacket is also popular when using stand-up paddle boards and small vessels.


Sandshark Anchor Spike

sandshark anchor spike
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The SandShark 18-inch sand anchor is an auger that digs into the ground. Once the auger is secured deep in the ground the anchor line attaches to the top loop. This anchor is great for securing boats in very shallow water or to the shore. This can also be used as a lightweight stern anchor to prevent the boat from swaying. The augur comes with a padded case for easy storage.


Pole Spike Mud Anchor

yak gear stick mud anchor
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Pole Spike mud anchors are made of fiberglass. The length of the stick is 6 feet long with a t-handle. This works to anchor, canoes, kayaks, and small boats up to 16 feet in length. The pole can also be used as a push pole in shallow water. It does sink in the water so it is recommended to add a float so the anchor does not sink if it is dropped in the water.


Other Specialized Anchoring Equipment

Sea Anchor

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Canyon Fishing Sea Anchors come in sizes of 18-inches, 24-inches, 36 inches, and 48 inches. Sea anchors are used to help slow the drift rate down of a boat and orientate the boat in a favorable direction. A sea anchor is also called a drift sock or parachute. Sea anchors are commonly used when sailfish fishing, live bait fishing, and chunking for tuna. Anytime you do not want the wind to drift the boat as fast putting out a sea anchor is a simple and effective way to do this. They can also be used on kayacks to slow the drift rate and not have to paddle upwind as often to stay on a specific fishing location.

Secure the anchor rope to a strong cleat as lots of force is applied by the sea anchor. There should be a trip line secured to the back of large sea anchors to make the retrieval process easier. When the sea anchor is pulled from the back there is much less resistance.


Power Pole

jl marine power pole pro series boat anchor
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JL Marine Power-Pole anchors come in 4-foot, 6-foot, and 8-foot anchor depth sizes. Color options include a white or black powder-coated finish. This anchor system weighs about 26.3 pounds. The Everflex spike comes with a lifetime warranty. Apps can be downloaded to control the anchor settings from your phone.

Power pole anchors are popular with bass fishermen and people that commonly fish in shallow water. This anchor deploys quietly at the push of a button.


Anchor Gear and Accessories

Selecting the anchor in an anchor setup is only half the battle. The appropriate size rope, chain, thimbles, shackles, and retrieval system needs to be selected. There are many factors that go into these options such as cost, size of the boat, max anchoring depth and ease of use. Let’s now look at the other gear needed for proper anchor setups.

Braided Nylon Anchor Rope

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Norestar Double Braided Nylon Anchor Rope comes in diameters of 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 inch. It comes in lengths of 150 feet, 200 feet, 250 feet, and 300 feet. The end of the rope comes professionally spliced to a thimble. The thimble allows the anchor to be easily attached to the anchor chain with a shackle.  The thimble can not be used with a windlass setup. For windlass setups, the rope needs to be spliced directly onto the chain.

The 3/8 inch diameter rope holds 4,500 pounds and is for boats under 27 feet. The 1/2 inch diameter rope holds 8,300 pounds and is for boats up to 36 feet. The 5/8 inch diameter rope holds 13,400 pounds and is for boats up to 45 feet. The 3/4 inch diameter rope holds 19,000 pounds and is for boats up to 54 feet. When hand pulling anchors it is nice to have a large diameter rope. I would recommend getting a minimum of 1/2 rope for boats over 18 feet.

Most anchoring rope is made of 3 strand or double-braided nylon. Nylon is used because it sinks, stretches to absorb wave movements, and is lightweight and strong. Some people prefer a braided line and some people prefer 3 strand rope. Both types of rope can be spliced but 3 strand rope is easier to splice. Creating a splice with double braided lines requires an appropriately sized anchor fid. An anchor fid is a cone-shaped device that comes to a point to allow anchor rope to be weaved through sections of hollow rope.

If you are not going to be splicing rope I would recommend getting the double braided line. If splicing will be involved I would recommend 3 strand rope, especially if two ropes will be spliced together to make a long rope.

For proper anchor rope length, the general rule is to have a minimum of 3 to 1 scope. This means that if the max anchoring depth will be 100 feet a minimum of 300 feet of anchor rope is required. Having a scope of 7:1 does offer the highest holding power and should be used when anchoring in harsh conditions or when anchoring overnight. If the anchor is sliding and does not set letting out more scope can help.  That being said I frequently anchored in around 400 feet of water with 600 feet of rope and 75 feet of chain. That is less than a 2:1 scope. The key here is using lots of heavy chains to allow the anchor to still be pulled horizontally with the ocean floor.

3 Strand Anchor Rope

3 strand boat anchor line rope
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The Attwood 3-strand twisted nylon anchor line comes with a metal thimble. Bass Pros Shops 3-strand rope by Lewmar has a nice rope-to-chain transition. These ropes come in lengths from 100 feet to 200 feet in length. 3-strand nylon anchor rope comes in typical rope diameters and lengths up to 1000 feet. A 3-strand rope is also great for mooring lines and making leashes with clips that attach to fishing reels to prevent them from falling overboard.

Anchor Chain

galvanized steel anchor chain
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SeaChoice galvanized steel anchor chain comes in 1/4 inch and 5/16 inch sizes. This is just an example anchor chain that would be used with small anchors to hold kayaks, canoes, paddle boards, and personal watercraft. A boat anchor chain should be longer than 5 feet. Bass Pro Shops has a 6-foot anchor chain that is 5/16 galvanized steel.

A boat anchor chain serves two purposes. First, it prevents the anchor rope from lying on seabeds which can damage the anchor rope. Second, the weight of the chain allows the anchor to be pulled horizontally which helps prevent the anchor from coming dislodged.

There are some general rules for anchor chain lengths. The first is to have a minimum of 15 feet of anchor chain. The second is that there should be 1 foot of anchor chain per foot of boat length. This means that for a 25-foot boat there would be 25 feet of anchor chain. The rule I like best is 1 foot of anchor chain per 6 foot of anchor line. Every 100 feet of anchor line would have about 17 feet of chain. This is recommended for harsh conditions, long-term anchoring situations, and when less than a 5 to 1 scope is being used. The weight of the chain is also important so if the anchor chain diameter is small, using a longer anchor chain is a good idea.

Anchor chains should be made of galvanized steel or stainless steel. Galvanized steel anchor chains are cheaper but will rust and corrode much faster. Rinsing the chain with fresh water at the end of each day does help reduce corrosion.

The most common size parameter for an anchor chain is the diameter. Common diameters include 3/16 inch which works for boats up to 24 feet, 1/4 inch chain which works for boats up to 28 feet, 5/16 inch chain which works for boats up to 36 feet, 3/8 inch chain which works for boats up to 48 feet. and 5/8 inch chain which works for boats up to around 70 feet. These are conservative boat size estimates and smaller chains can be used with larger boats in most cases. Using a larger heaver chain does help increase the holding power of the anchor in most cases.

I am dropping my anchor from the front of the boat

I the photo above, I am dropping my anchor through the anchor ring. I have 1,000 feet of anchor rope, which makes it so I can anchor in 400 feet of water.


Anchor Retrieval Systems

Anchor Windlass

lewmar anchor windlass
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The Lewmar 1/4 vertical windlass is made of stainless steel. This unit comes with a 5-year warranty. The windlass has 320 watts of power and is good for boats up to 35 feet. The required calibrated anchor chain is 6mm DIN766, 1/4 inch G4, or 7mm DIN766.

Having a windlass makes anchoring much less work and more enjoyable. Using a windlass is also faster than other anchor retrieval methods which means that more time can be spent fishing or relaxing. Without a windlass, anchoring typically requires two people or one person with an anchor buoy.

Without a windlass, anchoring multiple times a day is a significant amount of work. Anchoring at multiple fishing spots throughout the day can allow more fish to be caught. However, the anchor setup and retrieval time need to be taken into account. With a windlass, this time is greatly reduced and more fishing spots can be fished on any given day.

To set up a windlass the wires need to run to the batteries, the unit needs to be mounted securely and space needs to be available to hold the anchor rope. The calibrated anchor chain needs to be used with a windlass as the chain handling wheel called a gypsy only works with certain size chains.

Anchor Buoy With Anchor Ball Ring

I just installed a new a3 anchor ball to my achor setup
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Ironwood Pacific anchor ring puller comes with an 11-inch buoy or a 15-inch buoy. The 11 -inch buoy can float 30 pounds and the 15-inch buoy lifts up to 60 pounds. Color options include yellow, yellow Saturn, and red. I frequently used a similar anchor ball set up to retrieve the anchor daily when anchoring in over 350 feet of water while halibut fishing. For this, I use a size A-3 anchor ball which is close to the 15-inch buoy size.

The anchor ring itself comes in two sizes. The 1/4-inch stainless steel ring works with anchors up to 20 pounds. The 5/16 inch stainless steel ring work with an anchor up to 80 pounds.

The anchor buoys can also be purchased separately and come in a large variety of sizes. The polyform A-series are the most common anchor buoys. They come in sizes of A-0 which is 11.5 inches, A-1 which is 15 inches, A-2 which is 19.5 inches, A-3 which is 17 x 13 inches, A-4 which is 20.5 x 27 inches, and A-5 which is 27 x 36 inches.  These come in colors of black, blue, orange, red, Saturn yellow, and white.

When anchoring in 75 feet of water or greater without a windlass using an anchor buoy with an anchor ring is a great idea. The video “How to Use an Achor Ball” I showed earlier in this article demonstrates how to use an anchor ball.

To use the anchor buoy setup the anchor ring is first placed through the anchor line and the carabiner clip passes through both loops at the end of the ring. This should be done outside of the boat when the boat is anchored. Make sure the anchor line is secured at the front of the boat to a cleat with an anchor line outside of any boat railings. Never tie off the anchor rope to the middle or back of the boat. This could cause the boat to flip or sink.  Drive the boat forward but slightly to one side of the rope and make sure not to run over the rope. The anchor buoy will slide down the anchor line until it is vertical with the anchor. The force will then be pulling straight up on the anchor and should free the anchor.

Once the anchor is free speed up a bit to ensure the anchor slides up the line and into the anchor ring.  Once this happens, stop the boat and pull the anchor in by hand. If the boat is upwind of the anchor buoy the boat will drift toward the anchor buoy and the line can be easily gathered. Once the anchor is gathered in the boat the anchor and buoy can be separated and secured to the boat.

The first time an anchor buoy is used it might seem complicated. After it is used a few times you will wonder why an anchor is ever pulled from deep water by hand.


Anchoring Techniques

Setting the Anchor:

  1. Approach the anchoring spot into the wind or current, whichever is stronger
  2. Stop the boat and let it drift backward
  3. Lower the anchor to the bottom—don’t throw it
  4. Let out adequate scope (3:1 minimum, 5:1 or 7:1 for overnight)
  5. Back down on the anchor with the engine in reverse to set it firmly

Best Boat Anchors Summary

As you can tell there are a lot of options when it comes to boat anchors. There is no one best anchor setup that is low-cost, easy to use, and guaranteed to hold under all conditions. If I was setting up a boat to anchor every day I would get a windlass with a Bruce or delta anchor sized appropriately for the boat. For a small boat where I am hand-pulling the anchor, I would probably also go with a small Bruce anchor.

For a large boat without good bow rollers that typically anchors in shallow water, I would go with a box anchor. When anchoring deep and a windlass is not on the boat make sure the anchor setup will work with an anchor ball ring. Bruce and Delta anchors would both be good options. If the budget is tight a fluke anchor will get the job done in sand and soft bottoms.


Common Questions About Boat Anchors

What anchor is best for recreational boats?

I recommend using a Bruce or claw anchor for most bottom types. A Danforth or fluke anchor is the most common anchor to use for boats under 20 feet and a delta or winged anchor is the most common type of anchor used for recreational boats over 20 feet. There are many advantages and disadvantages to each anchor type which were previously discussed in detail in this article.

What anchor is best for sand?

If anchoring in loose sand the best anchor would be a Danforth or Fluke anchor. This anchor has the largest sectional area that can typically hold a boat in place even in loose sand. In hard sand, a delta anchor would be the best low-cost anchor option.

 

What is the best type of anchor line for most situations?

The best anchor line is 3-strand nylon rope or double-braided nylon rope. The reason this is the best anchor line is that it is strong, it sinks, can be spliced, and stretches to absorb shocks from waves. Anchor lines should also be at least three times longer than the depth of water being anchored in.

Can you anchor your boat anywhere?

Boats can not be anchored anywhere. First boats can not be anchored in high-traffic shipping lanes or narrow channels. Second anchors can not be used in areas that could damage sea life or infrastructure like in marine sanctuaries. Third most cities and harbors have restricted areas where boats can not be anchored. To stay overnight in these areas may require staying at a designated mooring. That being said if you are willing to anchor outside of the main harbor or town there is usually a place suitable for anchoring overnight. When staying long-term at a location getting a mooring is a better option because it is stronger and usually in a more convenient location for tendering into town.

What size anchor line do I need for my boat?

The general rule for anchor size is 1/8 inch of rope per 9 foot or boat length. If space is limited on a small boat using a small diameter rope will save space. In general, I would not recommend using less than 3/8 inch diameter rope. For small kyacks and inflatable boats, 1/8 inch anchor rope is good. Anchor rope 3/8 in diameter is for boats under 18 feet, 1/2 inch is for boats 19-25 feet, 5/8 inch is for boats 26-45 feet, 3/4 inch is for boats 46-54 feet.

How much anchor line should you use if the water is 20 feet deep?

Most people recommend using a 5:1 scope for short-term anchoring and a 7:1 scope for anchoring overnight or in harsh conditions. That means for anchoring in 20 feet of water rope between 100 feet and 140 feet should be used. From personal experience, good boat anchors with the proper amount of chain will hold in most bottoms with a 2:1 scope. So 40 feet of rope with 15 or more feet of anchor chain would work in many cases.

How many feet of chain do you need for an anchor?

There are three general guidelines for anchor chain length. First, the anchor chain should be at least 15 feet in length. Second, for average conditions, there should be 1 foot of anchor chain per foot of boat length. Third for anchoring in harsh conditions or anchoring overnight there should be 0ne foot of chain per six feet of anchor line. This means that every 100 feet of anchor line should have about 17 feet of chain.

small Bruce or claw anchor on a small boat stored in an egg crate

Which type of anchor has little holding power?

Anchors will little holding power include mushroom anchors and river anchors. These are meant to be set and retrieved quickly to stop the boat from drifting in light winds and light currents.

Which type of anchor has high holding power?

Low-cost anchors with high holding power include the Danforth or fluke anchor and the delta or winged anchor. There are also several more expensive anchor types like the Manson Supreme, Oceane, Rocna, and spade. These were shown to hold above the recording limit on at least one pull during an independent anchor test. The anchor with the highest holding power is often dependent on the type of seabed.

What types of fish are caught while anchoring?

The most common fish caught while anchoring includes sharks, yellowtail snapper, halibut, and catfish. Anchoring really gives an advantage when chumming and scented baits leave a scent trail that fish can follow back to the boat. Anchors also give a huge advantage when fishing structures such as ledges, reefs, and wrecks. Holding right on the structure where most fish live is often the best place to fish.

Hopefully, this information allows the best anchor setup to be selected for your boat. If you have any questions leave them in the comment section below. Also, let us know your favorite type of anchor and size of vessel that it is used on.

Should I display a day shape when anchored?

Yes, The requirement for vessels at anchor is to display a black ball as a day shape. According to international maritime regulations (COLREGS – International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea), a vessel at anchor during daylight hours must display “one black ball in the fore part of the vessel where it can best be seen.”

The ball must be at least 0.6 meters (about 2 feet) in diameter for vessels 20 meters or more in length. Smaller vessels may use a proportionally smaller ball.

This standardized shape helps other vessels identify that a boat is anchored rather than underway, allowing them to navigate safely around the stationary vessel.
I am using a black balloon as a vessel that is anchored day shape
In this case, I tied a black balloon to a fishing rod and placed it in the rod holder so it could be seen by commercial trolling vessels.

Electric Trolling Motors: Understanding What You Need for Your Boat

Trolling motors are a great way to power a small johnboat, canoe, or kayak. Larger pedal-operated trolling motors are used extensively on bass boats and shallow ocean running boats to fish near the shore. A trolling motor allows the boat to quietly sneak into the best fishing spots.

Without a trolling motor, fishermen have to rely on drift fishing. This is a big disadvantage because the boat is simply taken in the direction of the wind and current. Sometimes the boat ends up in shallow water that is difficult to navigate out of with the large primary motor.

We are using a Minn Kota bow mounted trolling motor on out flats boat

How to Choose the Right Trolling Motor

Power Requirements

The electrical system needed for your trolling motor depends on its thrust rating:

  • 55 pounds thrust or less: Typically runs on a single 12-volt deep cycle battery
  • 60-80 pounds thrust: Usually requires 24 volts (two batteries)
  • 90-112 pounds thrust: Generally needs 36 volts (three batteries)

A typical 30-pound thrust motor draws about 30 amp-hours at full throttle, meaning a standard deep cycle marine battery (55-100 amp hours) will provide 1-4 hours of continuous use. In practice, since you’re not constantly running at full power, a day of fishing is usually manageable with appropriate battery capacity.

I have fished a 6-hour bass fishing tournament with a 30-pound thrust trolling motor with two 55 amp hour batteries in an electric-only lake in a small Jon boat. It was enough battery power for the entire tournament because most of the time when fishing the trolling motor is off or only at partial throttle. On windy days though the trolling motors battery usage will go up significantly.

Mounting Options

Where you mount your trolling motor significantly impacts performance:

Bow-Mounted Motors

Mounting at the bow (front) is generally considered the best option for control and precision. The motor pulls rather than pushes the boat, providing superior handling in various conditions. This works best on boats with accessible open bows like jon boats, skiffs, and most fishing boats.

Transom-Mounted Motors

Mounting at the transom (rear) works excellently for smaller watercraft like canoes, kayaks, and jon boats. These are typically easier to install and more affordable. I’ve found them particularly useful as backup motors.

Primary Motor Mounted

Some trolling motors attach directly to your main outboard’s cavitation plate. While always in the water (creating some drag), these don’t take up valuable deck space – perfect for smaller boats carrying multiple anglers.

Control Systems

The way you control your trolling motor affects your fishing experience:

Hand-Controlled

Traditional hand-tiller control requires you to be positioned near the motor. While simple and reliable, it occupies your hands when you could be fishing.

Cable-Steered

These use a mechanical cable connected to a foot pedal, offering precise control without occupying your hands. Many serious bass anglers prefer these for their immediate response and reliability.

Wireless/Electronic

Modern trolling motors often feature electronic controls via foot pedals or handheld remotes. Higher-end models include GPS anchoring, autopilot, and even smartphone integration. While offering remarkable convenience, they may have a slight response delay compared to cable systems.

There are several important decisions that will have to be made when selecting a trolling motor. First deciding how much thrust will be needed to propel the vessel is important. Next how it will be mounted. The mounting option for trolling motors includes bow-mounted, transom-mounted, and primary motor mounted.  Control options for trolling motors include hand-controlled, cable steered, cable controlled, and technologically controlled.

The power supplied to the motor is delivered by electric batteries. These batteries need to have the proper voltage and current. The amount of current stored in the batteries is measured in amp-hours. The larger the battery’s capacity the longer the motor can be run without being recharged.

The voltage requirement varies based on the max thrust of the motor. Trolling motors with 55 pounds of thrust and under can use a single 12-volt battery. The second level of motors with 60-80 pounds of the thrust recommends using 24 volts requiring two batteries. For large motors with 90-112 pounds of thrust, it is recommended to have 36 volts of power requiring three batteries.


Transom Mount Trolling Motors

1. Minn Kota Endura

mini kota endura best transom mount trolling motor
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Estimated Price $115-$260
Thrust Levels 30, 40, 45, 50, or 55
Control Telescopic Tiller
Speeds 5 Forward, 3 Reverse
Voltage 12 Volts
Shaft Lengths 30, 36, or 42-Inch
Saltwater Rated No

Minn Kota has several top-selling trolling motors for pretty much every scenario and watercraft type. The Minn Kota Endura is a transom-mounted unit sporting five different thrust options which are 30, 40, 45, 50, and 55 pounds.

The shafts lengths vary based on the distance the motor is mounted in the water. The shaft length also affects the handle height. If the boat is controlled while sitting down a lower handle height is good. When controlling to motor from a standing position a taller handle height is better. Shaft lengths are 30, 36, and 42 inches. The handle of this unit is telescopic to make it longer or shorter based on the situation.

The Minn Kota composite shaft is well known for its incredible durability. It is true that it can significantly bend but it won’t break. These motors can take some abuse without having major issues.

This is an excellent trolling motor for anglers that want a basic reliable transom mount trolling motor using a single 12-volt battery. Minn Kota offers a lifetime warranty on the shaft and a two-year limited warranty on the rest of the package.

I am holding bass and pickerel I caught on a boat with a small stern mounted trolling motor

In the photo above I am fishing for bass and pickerel in a small Jon boat with a transom mount trolling motor.


2. Minn Kota Endura Max Transom Mount Trolling Motor

minn kota endrua max transom mount trolling motor

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Estimated Price $240-$310
Thrust Levels 40, 45, 50, or 55
Control Telescopic Tiller
Speeds Digital Maximizer
Voltage 12 Volts
Shaft Lengths 30, 36, or 42-Inch
Saltwater Rated No

This unit is almost entirely the same as the regular Endura but comes with the Digital Maximizer system. The difference in price is roughly $50, and some of you may not need the Digital Maximizer on the Endura Max so that is why both of the trolling motors are on the list.

The Digital Maximizer is a software that automatically adjusts the power supplied to the trolling motor based on a predetermined speed. This can in theory increase your battery life by 5 times in certain situations. Trolling motors do not necessarily make the boat go faster by applying more power. The pitch of the prop limits how fast a trolling motor will go. The maximizer helps ensure the user is not running the motor faster than is needed. This is most helpful when traveling from one location to another with the trolling motor.


3. Minn Kota Riptide SC Transom Mount

minn kota riptide sc transom mount trolling motor
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Estimated Price $310-$520
Thrust Levels 45, 55, or 112
Control Tilt Extending Tiller
Speeds 5 Forward, 3 Reverse
Voltage 12V for 55, 65, 36V for 112
Shaft Lengths 36, 42, or 52-Inch
Saltwater Rated Yes

The Minn Kota Riptide SC is a transom mount saltwater-rated trolling motor that is controlled with a tiller handle. Features include the indestructible composite shaft, push to test battery life indicator, quiet motor, and a 10 position bracket that adjusts with a quick-release lever. The SC  version has 5 forward speeds and three reverse speeds. The other type is continuous variable speed.

The tiller handle extends 6 inches and can tilt up to 45 degrees. The shaft has a lifetime warranty and the unit has a two-year limited manufacturer warranty.


4. Minn Kota Vantage Freshwater Trolling Motor

minn kota vantage freshwater trolling motor

Estimated Price $1,500
Thrust Levels 80 or 101-Pound.
Control Tilt Extending Tiller
Speeds Digital Maximizer
Voltage 24 Volts, 36 Volts
Shaft Lengths 31-Inch.
Saltwater Rated No

The Minn Kota Vantage is a powerful trolling motor that is hand steered. The motor is unique in that it can be raised and lowered automatically with the push of a button. It has the vantage mounting system which breaks away on impact which helps protect the boat and motor when striking the ground.

The trolling motor has a 4:1 articulating steering system for sharper turns with less tiller handle movement. It can also turn 180 degrees so the propeller can be used in the more efficient forward motion to travel in all directions. The Vantage can quickly be placed in back trolling mode where the motor is turned 180 degrees.

Features include a tiller handle that can extent 31 inches, digital battery life indicator, and the digital maximizer to control the boat speed more efficiently to extend battery life. It also has the Weedless Wedge 2 propeller which is very popular with anglers who bass fish in the weeds.


5. Minn Kota Traxxis Trolling Motor

minn kota traxxis transom mount trolling motor
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Estimated Price $395-$450
Thrust Levels 45, 55, 70, or 80
Control Tilt Extending Tiller
Speeds Digital Maximizer
Voltage 12 Volts or 24 Volts
Shaft Lengths 36 or 42-Inch
Saltwater Rated No

The Minn Kota Traxxis unique trolling features are with its steering modes. It is a transom mount trolling motor but the direction the motor faces can be quickly changed 180 degrees to allow for back trolling. This makes the propeller and motor more efficient when back trolling.

It also has a 4:1 articulating steering system where 45 degrees of motion of the tiller handle moves the motor 180 degrees. Other features include the digital maximizer, an indestructible composite shaft that is strong and flexible, and a tilt extending tiller handle. It can be stored and deployed using one hand. This unit comes with a 3-year limited manufacturer warranty.


6. Watersnake with Kayak Bracket Trolling Motor

watersnake transom mount kayak bracket trolling motor
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Estimated Price $123-$190
Thrust Levels 18 or 24-Pound
Control Tiller
Speeds High, Low, and Reverse
Voltage 12 Volts
Shaft Lengths 24-Inch
Saltwater Rated Yes

The watersnake trolling motor is specifically designed for kayaks. It comes in two configurations a transom mount or a kayak side mount.  The two-blade propeller is a weedless design so it will work well when fishing in thick cover. This trolling motor is designed with fishing in mind.

Key features include its lightweight, high-low power switch, forward-reverse switch, and mounting design that will work with most kayaks. There is an Intex Mount Kit that will also allow this trolling motor to be used on small inflatable boats.


7. Goplus Electric Trolling Motor

goplus electric trolling motor transom mounted
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Estimated Price $170-$250
Thrust Levels 46, 55, and 86-Pound
Control Extending Tiller
Speeds 5 Forward, 3 Reverse
Voltage 12V for 46, and 55, 24V for 86
Shaft Lengths 36-Inch
Saltwater Rated Yes

The Goplus is a transom mount tiller controlled electric trolling motor. This is a basic trolling motor and would be good to use on a small Jon boat, kayak, or inflatable boat.

It has a 10 position bracket to lift and lower the motor into different angled positions. The shaft depth can also be adjusted with a clamp which is nice when going into really shallow water. There is also a 10 point LED battery life indicator. The head of the motor is made with aluminum which can increase the life of the unit.


8. Newport Vessels Kayak Series Trolling Motor

newport vessels kayak series transom mount trolling motor
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Estimated Price $180-$250
Thrust Levels 36 or 55
Control Telescopic Tiller
Speeds 5 Forward, 3 Reverse
Voltage 12 Volts
Shaft Lengths 24-Inch
Saltwater Rated Yes

The Newport Vessels Kayak series is a short trolling motor that is built for Kayaks.  It is available in either 36-pound or 55-pound thrust options and comes with a 24-inch fiberglass shaft. The shaft length is to short for most boats but can work with inflated boats.

This is purpose-built for kayaks, is economically friendly, and easily propels a kayak with tons of gear. The motor is equipped with anti-corrosion coatings and seals making it resistant to saltwater.

The motor encasement and internals are all crafted from lightweight aluminum and stainless steel. This unit is to be mounted on the rear (transom) of the kayak. It comes with an adjustable handle height and works work most kayak sizes. The motor also comes with a 2-year limited warranty.


9. Newport Vessels Mossy Oak Trolling Motor

newport vessels mossy oak saltwater transom mount trolling motor
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Estimated Price $190-$260
Thrust Levels 40 or 55-Pound
Control Extension Tiller
Speeds 5 Forward, 3 Reverse
Voltage 12 Volts
Shaft Lengths 36-Inch
Saltwater Rated Yes

These Newport Vessels trolling motor comes in Mossy Oak camo or black. Power options are 40 pounds or 55 pounds. Both sizes are powered with a single 12-volt deep cycle battery.

Features include a 30-degree adjustable handle in the vertical direction, a LED battery life indicator, and saltwater rated equipment. This is a transom mount trolling motor with a tilt-adjust mounting bracket. The battery cable is 4 feet in length. A 50 AMP circuit breaker is included and should be installed to help protect against electrical damage.


Bow Mount Trolling Motors

10. Motorguide X3 Bow Mount Hand Control Trolling Motor

motorguide x3 bow mount hand control trolling motor
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Estimated Price $392-$605
Thrust Levels 45 or 55-Pound
Control Extending Tiller
Speeds 5 Forward, 3 Reverse
Voltage 12 Volts
Shaft Lengths 50-Inch
Saltwater Rated No

This Motor Guide X3 is a bow mount trolling motor with a tiller to control position and speed. Some anglers prefer to use a tiller over a foot pedal or wireless remote. While this is less common it is an effective way to control the boat.

Features include a composite shaft with a lifetime warranty, extendable tiller handle, new mount design, composite locking pins, and quiet 3-blade Machete propeller.


11. Minn Kota Riptide Maxxum Saltwater Trolling Motor with Latch

minn kota riptide saltwater bow mount trolling motor with latch
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Estimated Price $780-$1,350
Thrust Levels 55, 70, and 80-Pound
Control Tilt Extending Tiller
Speeds Digital Maximizer
Voltage 12V for 55, 24V for 70 and 80
Shaft Lengths 52 or 62-Inch
Saltwater Rated Yes

This is the Minn Kota Maxxum Riptide saltwater trolling motor with latch. It is a bow mount trolling motor that is controlled with a tiller handle. The latch and door make the motor easily removable. It is placed on a Bowguard 360 mount which allows the motor to break free if it runs aground.

This is a Riptide model which means that it is saltwater rated with coated aluminum for corrosion resistance. The digital maximizer helps adjust the motor power to level for a given speed which helps maximize battery life. There is a button to press to display battery life. The depth of the motor can quickly be changed with the quick lock cam depth adjuster.


12. Minn Kota Maxxum Bow Mount Trolling Motor

minn kota maxxum bow mount trolling motor
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Estimated Price $700-$1,080
Thrust Levels 55, 70, and 80-Pound
Control Foot Pedal or Tiller
Speeds Digital Maximizer
Voltage 12V for 55, 24V for 70 and 80
Shaft Lengths 42, or 52-Inch
Saltwater Rated Yes

The Minn Kota Maxxum is a bow mount freshwater trolling motor. This is the freshwater version of the Riptide Maxxum and comes in a shorter 42-inch shaft length option and has a weedless wedge 2 propeller. The unit can come in the cable food pedal control configuration or the tiller hand-control configuration.

It is mounted on the Bowguard 360 which breaks away if it runs into the ground. After breaking away the unit will automatically reset. The mounting bracket also makes it easy to remove the trolling motor. Features include the digital maximizer, illuminated directional indicator, anodized aluminum mount, and a push to test battery indicator.

I am fishing a bass tournament with a bow mounted trolling motor

In the photo above I am in a bass fishing tournament fishing with a bow mounted trolling motor.


13. Minn Kota Edge Bow Mount Trolling Motor

minn kota edge bow mount foot control trolling motor
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Estimated Price $410-$610
Thrust Levels 45, 55, or 70.
Control Tilt Twist Tiller or Foot
Speeds 5 Speeds
Voltage 12V for 45, 55, 24V for 70.
Shaft Lengths 36, 45, 50, or 52-Inch
Saltwater Rated No

The Minn Kota Edge is a reasonably priced bow mountable trolling motor. It also comes in two styles, a foot-controlled model and a hand-controlled model. The foot control model is more popular as this leaves both hands free to fish.

The foot control cord is roughly 4 feet in length. It has a latch and door design that makes the motor easy to remove which is often important. The hand control model has a tilt tiller for easy control even when standing. This trolling motor comes with a two-year limited manufacturer warranty and the composite shaft has a lifetime warranty.


14. MotorGuide X3 Bow Mount Trolling Motor

motorguide x3 bow mount trolling motor
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Estimated Price $440-$710
Thrust Levels 45, 55, or 70
Control Power Prop
Speeds 5 Speeds
Voltage 12V for 45, 55, 24V for 70
Shaft Lengths 36 or 50-Inch.
Saltwater Rated Yes

The MotorGuide X3 is a bow mount trolling motor with foot control. It comes equipped with the MotorGuide Proprietary Variable Ratio Steering (VRS) system. This is widely known as one of the most accurate foot-controlled systems in units priced under a thousand bucks.

The entire unit is constructed of aircraft-grade aluminum and uses stainless-steel hardware, making it fairly corrosion resistant and ready to plunge into saltwater. The X3 was built with sound reduction in mind. They utilized composite bushings and locking pins to ensure quiet operation the entire unit is easy to use.


15. Motorguide Tour Pro Trolling Motor

motor guide tour pro trolling motor

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Estimated Price $2,700-$2,800
Thrust Levels 109-Pound.
Control Cable-Steer with GPS Anchor
Speeds Foot Pedal.
Voltage 136 Volts
Shaft Lengths 45-Inch
Saltwater Rated No

The Motorguide Tour Pro is a powerful freshwater trolling motor commonly used on bass fishing boats. It is the only trolling motor that has the GPS anchor feature with a foot pedal cable steer design. The GPS can connect to most fishing finders.

It has a 3 blade weedless prop that is 30 percent more efficient than older version propellers. The 360-degree breakaway mount helps protect the motor when running to the ground. Other features include Zero-G lift-assist, pinpoint with anchor lock, heading lock, and cruise control.


16. Motorguide Xi3 Wireless Trolling Motor

motorguide xi3 wireless bow mounted trolling motor
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Estimated Price $845-$1,070
Thrust Levels 55 or 70-Pound
Control Wireless Remote
Speeds Digital Power Management
Voltage 12V for 55 and 24 V for 70
Shaft Lengths 36, 48, 54-Inch
Saltwater Rated Salt Version Available

The Motorguide Xi3 comes in black which is the freshwater version and white which is the saltwater version. There are three options to choose from, standard, standard plus GPS, and standard plus GPS with sonar.

All of these units are controlled using a wireless remote control. A wireless foot control pedal is available for the unit but is not included. Features include an efficient quiet motor, GPS to allow a position to be held, a secure step lever for easy deployment, and digital power management to allow the batteries to last longer. The sonar can be integrated with most popular fishfinder brands such as Lowrance and Simrad.


17. Motorguide Xi5 Wireless Saltwater Trolling Motor

motorguide wireless saltwater trolling motor bow mount
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Estimated Price $1,990-$2,402
Thrust Levels 55, 80, 105-Pound
Control Wireless Remote
Speeds Digital Power Management
Voltage 12V, 24V, 36V
Shaft Lengths 48, 54, or 72-Inch
Saltwater Rated No

The Motorguide Xi5 is a trolling motor with wireless operation. It can come with or without GPS. A built-in 83/200 kHz sonar is included and can interface with select Lowrance, Simrad, and Mercury VesselView fish finders.

Key features include Pinpoint GPS, saltwater rated components, high-efficiency electronics, wireless handheld remote control, and digital power management for longer battery life. A wireless foot control pedal is available for this unit but does not come included.


18. Minn Kota Riptide Powerdrive Bow Mount Trolling Motor

minn kota riptide powerdrive with copilot bow mount trolling motor
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Estimated Price $950-$1,180
Thrust Levels 55, or 70
Control Wireless, GPS, or Foot
Speeds Digital Maximizer
Voltage 24 Volts
Shaft Lengths 48 or 54-Inch
Saltwater Rated Yes

The Riptide Powerdrive and the Riptide Terrova are very similar in appearance and functionality, but the Terrova is a more expensive and polished product.

The Powerdrive does come equipped with the I-Pilot feature, which is powered by GPS and enables many powerful functions such as spot-lock, autopilot, and is controllable by the I-Pilot handheld remote. Now, the Powerdrive does not allow the use of both a foot pedal and the remote simultaneously, that functionality is reserved for the more expensive Terrova model.

The Powerdrive is deployed by hand, without the use of the Minn Kota deploy assist. If you are not using the I-Pilot function with the remote, you will have to operate the trolling motor by hand. There is no foot pedal integration with the Powerdrive model. This is when many people spend the extra money and get the Terrova model.

Bow Mounted Trolling Motor

The I-Pilot system also allows co-pilot with the use of BlueTooth integration on your smartphone. This allows the driver to make quick and easy adjustments from their phone.

The spot-lock holds a position and is accurate up to 3 feet. It calculates position using GPS and can even account for most wind and wave conditions.

Both Riptide modules are specifically designed for saltwater use. Riptide signifies that the unit is anti-corrosive and suitable for saltwater implementation. If the Minn Kota unit you are looking at doesn’t say it is a Riptide model, it will not come with the proper anti-corrosive coatings.


19. Minn Kota Riptide Terrova Bow Mount Trolling Motor

minn kota riptide terrova trolling motor i-pilot
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Estimated Price $1,064-$2,500
Thrust Levels 80-Pound
Control Wireless, GPS, or Foot
Speeds Digital Maximizer
Voltage 24 Volts
Shaft Lengths 54, 60, or 72-Inch
Saltwater Rated Yes

This Riptide Terrova trolling motor has the same basic functionalities as the Powerdrive with the added features of a foot pedal and lifts assist. This is the Riptide version of the Terrova, which is the version purpose-built for saltwater use and is anti-corrosive.

Another difference here between the Powerdrive and the Terrova is its thrust and shaft options. With the Terrova, the max thrust is 80 pounds compared to 70 pounds with the power drive. The Terrova also has 60 and 72-inch shaft length options.

If your watercraft is on the heavier side or you want the lift-assist feature or you want to control with your feet the Terrova is a better option than the Powerdrive. Both options are great and both have their place based on user needs. If money is not an factor, check out the Minn Kota Ultrex, as it is even more powerful than both of these units and offers some advanced control features.


20. Minn Kota Ultrex I-Pilot Bow Mount Trolling Motor

minn kota utrex freshwater bow mount trolling motor
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Estimated Price $3,780
Thrust Levels 80 or 112-Pound
Control Wireless, GPS, or Foot
Speeds Digital Maximizer
Voltage 24V for 80 and 36V for 112
Shaft Lengths 45 or 52-Inch
Saltwater Rated No

The Minn Kota Ultrex is widely reviewed and praised by many professional fishermen.  It comes with a foot pedal and some of the most advanced control mechanisms on any trolling motor to date.

Key features include the lift assist, large easy to read LCD display, remote control, spot-lock, steering lock, and the most sensitive foot-pad ever found on a trolling motor. It is so sensitive that some people actually complain about it at first as it takes some time to get used to how smooth and easy it is to use!

The I-Pilot feature utilizes GPS functionality for its co-pilot and spot-lock features. It will also record your travels and automatically position your boat within a 3-foot radius. Spot-Lock can also be adjusted in any direction by 5’, allowing easy incremental adjustments.

I-Pilot will also report battery life and estimated time remaining based on real-time data from usage, conditions, etc. Of course, the Ultrex also comes equipped with the Minn Kota Digital Maximizer, which has proven capabilities of increasing battery life up to 5 times compared to units without this feature.

The I-Pilot also has smartphone integration, allowing full access to its controls in the palm of your hand. Some people even use this when taking the boat off the trailer.

Lastly, the Universal Sonar 2 feature is a handy method of mounting a transducer by allowing you to completely conceal the wiring of pretty much any transducer you choose to implement.


21. Aquos Haswing Cayman Bow Mount Motor

aquos haswing cayman bow mount 12 volt trolling motor
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Estimated Price $670
Thrust Levels 55-Pound
Control Wireless or Wired Foot
Speeds Digital Control
Voltage 12 Volts
Shaft Lengths 48-Inch
Saltwater Rated Yes

The Aquos Haswing Cayman is a bow-mounted trolling motor. It comes standard with rechargeable wireless remote control. A wired foot pedal is optional and it has a digital display. There is also a quick-release mount that can add a padlock to prevent people from stealing the motor. Color options are white or black which are both saltwater rated.

This motor can be used on boats that are 18 feet or smaller and weigh up to 2750 pounds. The wireless remote can control the motor up to around 150 feet. Features include an LED battery meter, encapsulated electronics, depth collar to adjust the depth, motor fin, and 360-degree steering.


22. Minnkota E-drive Primary Electric Motor

minnkota e-drive primary propulsion electric motor 2-hp

Estimated Price $4180
Thrust Levels 2 HP about 150-Pounds
Control Electric Throttle
Speeds Digital Maximizer
Voltage 48 Volts
Shaft Lengths 20-Inch
Saltwater Rated No

Minnkota E-drive is set up to act as a primary electric motor. This is a great motor option for fishing boats and pontoon boats on electric-only lakes. The E-drive can push a full-size pontoon boat about 5 miles per hour. It can run for about 2 hours on a full charge. Much longer than two hours at slower speeds.

The motor is rigged with outboard cable linkage to be able to steer from the driver’s seat. It has an electric throttle with forward, reverse, and neutral. The motor can be raised and lowered using the push-button tilt. On the throttle unit, there is a real-time gauge that shows the engine power level and battery life.

The motor is connected with a bolt-on transom mount and has a breakaway system that helps protect the motor in the event it runs into the ground. It has a stainless steel prop with a shear pin that can protect the prop if it hits the ground.


23. Torqeedo Travel 1003 Electric Outboard Motor

torqeedo travel electric outboard motor

Estimated Price $2500
Thrust Levels 3 HP about 225-Pound
Control Tiller
Speeds Digital Control
Voltage 29.6 Volts
Shaft Lengths 30, 36, or 42-Inch
Saltwater Rated 24.4, or 29.7-Inch

The Torqeedo Travel 1003 is an electric outboard motor that can be used on sailboats, dingings, and inflatable boats. This motor is rated for boats between 1000 pounds to 3000 pounds. The weight of the motor is 19.6-20.0 pounds, with the batteries the weight is 29.5-30.9 pounds.

A battery does come included with the trolling motor. It is 915Wh and 29.6 Volts. The battery takes about 15 hours to charge. It lasts about 17 hours at 1.25 miles per hour, 6 hours at 2 miles per hour, and 55 minutes at 3 miles per hour. Its potential range is increased at slower speeds in most conditions.

A charger is included with the motor. Lead deep cycle batteries do not work with Torqeedo motors. There is an onboard computer integrated with GPS that will display the battery charge status, range, and speed information. A magnetic stop key is located on top of the unit in the event of and emergency requiring the unit to be stopped immediately.


Electric Trolling Motors

Electric trolling motors are very useful when fishing in shallow water for fish like bass, crappie, and tarpon. Trolling motors are not actually used to troll lures but rather to get into shallow locations quietly and without risking hitting the bottom with the main motor.

Trolling motors are comprised primarily of four basic components. The shaft, the motor, the propeller, and the battery. Each of these has many subsets that will cause variations in the way the trolling motor is utilized and how it will perform. Understanding each of them and choosing a conglomerate of the four that are built for your boat size and your needs is important when shopping for a trolling motor.

A trolling motor is an all-in-one removable unit encompassing a small motor attached to a prop at the end of a shaft. These motors are designed to offer the operator advanced control and precision over their watercraft. Many people use them for fishing in instances of navigating small watercraft without a primary source of power or navigating boats more precisely through difficult obstacles.

For example, one may have an outboard motor attached to their boat, but to fire that up and use it to maneuver around closely packed trees in the water may result in scaring the fish away. It may also cause a few more bumps and rubs against the trees than you would like. Using a trolling motor in this situation keeps the noise level significantly lower than what your full-size motor would produce. At the same time, it allows you to navigate in smaller more precise increments around the trees in the area.

Trolling Motors Applications

Another great example of utilizing a trolling motor is on watercraft which does not have the capabilities of using a traditional motor and prop system. Watercraft such as canoes, kayaks, rowboats, etc will benefit greatly from the use of a trolling motor. Most of us love fishing and therefore would rather use our time and energy on the actual act of fishing itself instead of rowing all day to fish good spots. Using a trolling motor makes it easy to navigate these watercraft.

Many people also keep a trolling motor retracted on their watercraft as a backup option in case their primary source of power becomes damaged or fails. Being stuck in the middle of a lake with a failing motor is never fun, but coming prepared with a trolling motor ensures you get back to the dock safely and timely. Since trolling motors are fairly light, highly durable, and don’t take up much space, it’s rather easy to come prepared with one as an emergency backup.

Another major advantage of using a trolling motor is in situations where wake or gas combustion motors are prohibited. So long as you’re using an electric powered trolling motor, most places will allow this over the use of a gas-powered motor, giving you more options in where you can fish.

Freshwater vs. Saltwater Motors

If you fish in saltwater environments as I have in the Florida Keys and Virgin Islands, investing in a saltwater-rated motor is essential. These feature corrosion-resistant materials, thicker seals, and better protection against the harsh marine environment. While they cost more initially, they’ll save you money in the long run by lasting significantly longer in salt conditions.


Frequently Asked Questions About Trolling Motors

Over the years, these are the questions I’m most commonly asked about trolling motors:

How big of a trolling motor do I need?

The size of the trolling motor that is needed depends on the weight and drag of the boat. Larger heavier boats need larger trolling motors. The power of a trolling motor is given in terms of trust power. Common thrust power ranges are 30, 40, 45, 50, 55, 80, 112, or 150 pounds of thrust. One horsepower is about 75 pounds of thrust for comparison.

Trolling motors do not go faster if you get a larger motor for a small boat. The speed and pitch of the prop will only move the boat so fast. Most trolling motors under 55-pounds of thrust can be run on a single 12-volt deep-cycle marine battery. In fact, it better to get a smaller motor for light boats because the battery will last longer. The rough rule is you want 2 pounds of thrust for every 100 pounds on the boat. So a 30-pound thrust motor works for the boat, equipment, and crew up to 600 pounds.

The other size that matters on a trolling motor is the shaft length. For trolling motors to work properly the propeller needs to be 12 inches or more into the water. Kayaks and small boats are low to the water and need shorter shaft lengths. The bow of a boat is typically higher from the water than the transom and therefore needs longer shaft lengths as well.

How fast will a trolling motor go?

Most trolling motors, regardless of thrust rating, have a top speed of around 5 miles per hour. A 55-pound thrust motor can move a boat weighing up to 2,250 pounds at this speed in calm conditions, while a 112-pound thrust motor can move up to 6,500 pounds at similar speeds.

The key difference isn’t speed but rather the weight they can effectively move. Wind and current significantly impact actual performance.

How deep should a trolling motor be in the water?

The propeller should be submerged about 12 inches (1 foot) below the water surface for optimal performance. Most trolling motors allow for depth adjustment to accommodate different mounting positions and water conditions.

When fishing in choppy water, I set my bow-mounted trolling motor slightly deeper to prevent the propeller from breaking the surface as the boat rises and falls with waves.

Which is better: MotorGuide or Minn Kota?

Both brands make excellent trolling motors. In my experience, Minn Kota tends to be the industry standard with more advanced features like wireless control, GPS positioning, and integrated transducers. Their models often come at a premium price point.

MotorGuide typically offers slightly more basic features at a lower price point, though their higher-end models now match many of Minn Kota’s capabilities. Both companies generally offer two-year limited warranties on their products.

What’s the difference between 12-volt and 24-volt trolling motors?

The main difference is the size of the boat they can effectively propel. A 12-volt system (typically up to 55 pounds of thrust) works well for boats weighing up to about 2,250 pounds. A 24-volt system (typically around 80 pounds of thrust) can handle boats up to about 4,000 pounds.

Both will achieve similar top speeds of around 5 mph, but the higher voltage systems can move more weight and typically provide longer run times.

Fish Finders: Down Imaging, Side Scan, and Navigation

When we talk about fish finders today, we are really discussing integrated marine technology that combines sonar, map navigation with depth contours, radar, side scan, 3D images, and sometimes even autopilot. As a charter captain who has spent countless hours on the water, I have learned that understanding fish finder technology can improve your fishing success and allow you to navigate safely on the water.

Simrad Fish Finder with navigation display that we were using in the flats

Fish Finder Features

What fish finder you need really depends on the type of fishing being done and the other technology like radar and autopilots that needs to be compatible with the unit. As a charter captain, I like to have the state of the art electronics. Having good electronics is really helpful when you are on a boat for 12+ hours a day. In Alaska having a radar is basically required and having autopilot integrated makes trolling offshore possible without a deckhand.

The sonar itself is helpful in locating, bait, structure temperature breaks, and fish. Sonar is especially helpful when fishing for fish that stay near the bottom like, salmon, walleye, crappie, and rockfish.

In many cases, fish finders cost thousands of dollars more just to get a larger display. For this reason, it is important to know what features are included and not just assume that a more expensive unit is better.

Understanding Fish Finder Technology

Two Simrad displays on a large Yacht

How Sonar Works in Fish Finders

The clarity of sonar depends on both the power of the transducer and the frequency in which it’s used. When a fish finder emits sound waves through water, these waves bounce off objects (fish, structure, bottom) and return to the transducer. The unit calculates the time it takes for this echo to return, which determines the depth and location of underwater objects.

Relatively new CHIRP (Compressed High-Intensity Radar Pulse) Technology allows for a range of frequencies to be swept simultaneously, enabling accurate feedback at both shallow and deep depths. This significantly improves the detail and clarity of what you’re seeing underwater.

Transducer Frequency Options and Their Applications

Traditionally, there were two main frequency options:

  • High-frequency band (around 200 kHz): Creates a wide beam that’s excellent at finding fish in less than 100-200 feet of water. These provide more detail but less depth penetration.
  • Lower frequency signal (around 50 kHz): Produces a more narrow beam that works well at finding fish and structures below 100-200 feet. These penetrate deeper but provide less detail.

With CHIRP technology, the unit can sweep through multiple frequencies simultaneously, providing the benefits of both high and low frequencies.

Types of Imaging in Modern Fish Finders

Modern fish finders offer several types of imaging technology:

Down Imaging: Shows detailed images of what’s directly below your boat, great for seeing fish holding tight to structure.

Side Imaging: Displays what’s to the sides of your boat, allowing you to scan large areas quickly and find structure that might hold fish.

3D Imaging: Creates three-dimensional views of underwater terrain and fish locations, making it easier to understand the relationship between fish and structure.

Fish Finder Options


1. Simrad NSS or NSO evo3s Fish Finder

simrad nss evo3s fish finder
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Estimated Price: $2,240-$12,200

The Simrad NSS evo3s comes in 9-inch, 12-inch, and 16-inch sizes. Simrad’s NSO evo3s display is 16-inch, 19-inch, or 24-inch. The NSS version is a powerful unit with the SolarMax IPS display, six-core processor, 1kW Chirp Sonar, and advanced networking options. This version is a top-of-the-line unit that is great for most recreational and professional anglers. It can be in integrated with autopilots, radar, sonar, and smartphone devices.

The NSO version is typically installed in luxury yachts and has the option to be integrated with the NSO eveo3s processor. It has the iMX 8 high-performance processor. The main reason to get the NSO version is the get the larger 19-inch or 24-inch displays, however, these larger sizes are significantly more expensive.

I use the NSS unit on our flats boat in the Florida Keys. In the video below I discuss why this is the best fish finder on the market. We have Florida Fish Tracks installed which provides detailed terrain maps that allow for easy navigation through channels and shallow water. As I looked around at the Fort Lauderdale boat show I was also surprised to see these unites of many mega yachts such as Sunseeker yachts. So this fish finder is versatile enough to be the best on an 18-foot flats boat or an 80-foot luxury yacht.

In the video above I explain why Simrad makes the best fishing finder. This fish finder is a 16-inch Simard with the Florida Marine Tracks chip installed. The chip shows the best path to travel on during high and low tiedes. This makes navigating in shallow water much easier.

Simrad also has C-MAPS and CMOR relief shading that shows the 3D structure of the bottom. This does need to be purchased separately on a chip. Garmin also has relief shading apps but CMOR mapping can not be used on a Garmin device. In the past, I would recommend Garmin as the best fishing finder. However, I think that Simrad has taken over and is the best in terms of navigation, sonar quality, and ease of use.

Three Simrad Fish finders on a sunseeker yacht

Multiple Simrad units are commonly used on large luxury Yachts. The picture shows three large Simrad displays on a Sunseeker Yacht.


2. Simrad GO9 GO12 XSE with Sonar Transducer Package

simrad go9 xse fish finder with sonar
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Estimated Price: $700-$2,550

This Simrad GOfish finder series comes in a 5-inch, 7-inch, 9-inch, and 12-inch display versions. The transducer included is the active image 3 in 1. It is able to get data for side scan, down scan, and CHRIP. The display can show up to four screens at one time. This is nice as the chart plotter navigation can be used in conjunction with the sonar and side-scan. Using these at the same time is a quick way to locate and mark underground structures and wrecks that are holding fish.

Radar can be integrated to track weather and navigate in foggy conditions. A phone or tablet can be connected wireless to the unit. This allows the screen to be displayed in more than one location on the boat. Often time anglers have to buy two full systems just to get the display in two locations. Using a phone or tablet is nice just make sure to run power to the screen when using it on long trips.


3. Garmin GPSMAP 743 943 1243 with Touchscreen

garmin 942xs fish finder with sonar

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Estimated Price: $1,100-$2,900

The Garmin GPSMAP  comes with a 7-inch, 9-inch, or 12-inch touch screen display.  There is a large price difference based on screen size as the 7-inch retails for around $1,100 the 9-inch is around 1,400 and the 12-inch costs around $2,900. This unit is compatible with radar, weather, sonar, VHF, camera, wind sensor, and AIS. On the back of the unit, there is an NMEA 2000 connection that allows this unit to work with autopilots.

The GPSMAP 743xsv, 943xsv, or 1243xsv is the newer model of the GPSMAP 742xsv, 942xsv, or 1242xsv which were very popular models. The new versions have a higher screen resolution and processor that is almost twice as powerful. If you get the xsv versions the unit will work with Sidevu, Clearvu, mapping, and traditional sonar which are all typically included. There is an xs or standard version that is significantly cheaper that uses the traditional CHIRP and downVu sonar which is typically not included with the purchase.

Garmin Fish finders we were using while trolling

The touchscreen series of Garmin fish finders are my favorite to use. As a charter captain if I was buying a boat I would get a Garmin with a 12-plus inch display. My favorite features of this device are the basic fish finder capabilities and easy-to-use navigation. With the touch screen, you can just tap the screen where you want to go on the map and hit goto. If an autopilot has been integrated taping the engage button will drive the boat straight to that location.  The navigation charts are very detailed and are a must-have when navigating in shallow water areas.

Garmin fish finder showing a wreck at night

I always wondered if would I rather have buttons and a knob or a touch screen. Often times when fishing my hands are wet and slimy. However, after using both for long periods of time I have concluded that having a touch screen is way nicer! When fishing inshore or offshore this is a powerful unit to have on the boat.


4. Garmin GPSMAP 86 Series with Transducer

garmin 8612xsv fish finder and chartplotter

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Estimated Price: $2,800-$12,000

The Garmin 86 series are the best marine chartplotters that Garmin makes. The modes are 8610, 8612, 8616, 8617, 8622, and 8624 for 10-inch, 12-inch, 16-inch, 17-inch, 22-inch, and 24-inch sizes respectfully. The actual diagonal display dimensions are a bit smaller than the unit size given.

Differences between the 1242xsv and the 8612xsv are mainly the screen resolution and types of transducers that can be used. The 86 series units have a full HD 1920 x 1o80 display compared to 1280 x 800 pixels for the 1242xsv. Also, the 86 series can use the ultra high definition transducer for improved sonar clarity.

The larger screen sizes cost significantly more money.  For example, the 10-inch version retails for around $2,700 while the 24-inch version cost around $12,000. The reasonable price point with an easily viewable display seems to be the 12-inch display for around $3,500 which is very popular. I know of several boats that mount two 12-inch units side by side near the driver’s seat and have an additional 12-inch display near the rear of the boat to view while trolling with downriggers. If you spend a lot of time using the fish finder and navigation it very well may be worth paying more for the large display sizes. The best size display is based on the vessel, user preference, and budget.


5. Garmin EchoMap UHD Fish Finder

garmin ecomap uhd touchscreen fish finder
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Estimated Price: $700-$2,950

The Garmin EcoMap UHD fish finder comes in 4-inch, 6-inch, 7-inch, 9-inch, 10-inc, and 12-inch color displays. Sv units come with a transducer that works as a side scan, clear view, and CHIRP sonar. The cv units are similar but do not have the clear view option which offers a wider field of view under the boat. It comes with Navionics charts preloaded for US Coastal waters in the ocean. Being able to see depth contours is important for safe navigation and finding fish. The screen can be controlled with the buttons on the right side of the touch screen.

There are several model options to choose from. The 92sv has only a worldwide base map, 93sv has LakeVu g3 Maps with data from 17,000 lakes in the USA, 94sv has BlueChart g3 with US coastal data, and 95sv has data for lakes in Canada.

A power cable and dashboard mount are included. This is a good unit for freshwater or saltwater use. NMEA cables allow for an autopilot to be set up with built-in navigation. This unit is compatible with the Garomin Panoptix Livescope scanning sonar which is an impressible technology. The Livescope is similar to a video camera since it shows a constantly updated live display. It points to the side and down and shows the side profile of fish and structure.


6. Garmin Striker Plus 5CV 7CV 9SV and Striker Vivid

Garmin Striker Plus fish finder
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Estimated Price: $320-$620

The Garmin Striker Plus has a 5-inch,  7-inch, or 9-inch color display that is readable in sunlight. This is a similar model to the striker 4 plus but instead of having the buttons underneath the display, this model aligns them on the right-hand side with a wider screen. There is also a new striker Vivid option on the market which offers new color palettes. It is basically the same as the Striker Plus but you can change to the color of the screen if you want.

The display is capable of split-screen viewing configurations and includes split-screen zooming. Of course, you’ll be getting your hands on that sweet Garmin ClearVU scanning technology which allows for incredibly concise and clear downward imaging, capable of creating imaging contours at 1-foot margins.

Furthermore, you’ll get the power of Garmin 5Hz GPS which is capable of being used as a split screen with your fish finding or imaging display.


7. Garmin Striker Plus 4 and Dual Beam Transducer Package

Garmin Strike Plus Dual Beam Transducer fish finder
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Estimated Price: $140-$160

The Garmin Striker Plus 4 has a 4.3-inch color display.  This is the same Striker we love from the previous review with a slightly larger and better contract display and a dual-beam transducer set-up, meaning you can use the CHIRP equipped sonar that sweeps through 50/77/83/200 kHz.

Fish finds are especially helpful at marking fish that live to near the bottom like salmon, walleye, crappie, and rockfish. For fish that do not swim in schools and or near the bottom, fish finders are most helpful to locate baitfish that predator fish might be feeding on.

This model is a bit better for those of you wanting a bit more control over the sonar configuration. Like the Striker 4 base model, this one includes the Garmin ClearVU-3D scanning function and also utilizes a 6-button layout, just in a slightly larger form factor.


8. Garmin Striker 4 and CHIRP Transducer Package

garmin striker and CHIRP Transducer fish finder
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Estimated Price: $140

The Garmin striker comes in 3.5-inch, 5-inch or 7-inch color displays with waterproofing. The CHIRP transducer uses 77 kHz-200 kHz sweeping frequency band with a maximum depth of 1600 feet.

If you just need a sonar unit in depths less than 50 feet this is a great low-cost fish finder that will mark fish and shop accurate depth. A major leader in the fish-finding tech sector is Garmin, which means you’ll see several of their top models on this list, and for good reason, they’re well made and priced fairly.

The Striker 4 is incredibly cheap at just above a hundred bucks but manages to include a very user-friendly GPS system and a very powerful CHIRP transducer. It’s affordable, it has what you need, and it gets the job done well with an adjustable transducer that’s capable of fitting the bill in most casual situations.

This particular unit also comes with the Garmin ClearVU scanning function and an easy-to-use mount. A six-button set on the unit is easy to use and it even comes with a built-in flasher for ice fishing or vertical jigging.

In the video below the Striker 4 is compared to the striker plus 4.  The striker plus 4 plus is reviewed as option 7 in this article.


9. Humminbird Helix 12 and 15 CHIRP Side Scan and Down Imaging

humminbird helix 12 with side scan down imaging and sonar transducer

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Estimated Price: $2500

The 12-inch and 15-inch Humminbird Helix is a top-of-the-line fish finder for freshwater fishing. It is controlled with the buttons on the right side and is not a touch screen. The large 12 to 15-inch screen allows the user to see the great imaging options of the unit in proper detail. These imaging features include Mega side imaging, Mega down imaging, CHIRP, Chart with GPS location, and maps with depth contours. The transducer, wiring harness, and bracket for mounting the fish finder are included.

This is a fish finder used by Bass fishing professionals. It can be mounted at the front of the boat near the bow mount trolling motor or near the dash by the searing wheel.  The Chirp sonar and down imaging allow fish and structure to be easily seen directly below the boat. Side imaging allows for more area to be viewed which results in more likely find the structure that is holding fish. Using the maps with depth changes is a good way to find drop-offs and ledges that often have high concentrations of fish. Another similar unit that is also good is the Humminbird Solix 15.


10. Humminbird Helix 7 CHIRP GPS G4N

humminbird helix 7chirp mega down imaging fish fider with transducer

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Estimated Price: $720-$930

The Helix 7 CHIRP Mega Down Imaging package from Humminbird has a 7-inch sunlight-readable display. This unit comes equipped with a powerful GPS receiver that offers your choice of storing 2500 waypoints and 50 different custom routes. The fish finder also comes equipped with an expandable storage slot fit for a single Micro SD card, in case that 2500 waypoints weren’t enough! To boot, the unit comes with Lake Master, Auto Charting Pro, and Navionics+, which work great for navigating and charting needs.

The G4N version is different from the G4 version because it has advanced networking and includes Mega Live Imaging, dual micro SD slots, ethernet networking, ipilot link, wi-fi, and chirp radar. If these are not features you plan to use the G4 version is significantly cheaper.


11. Humminbird Helix 5 G3 CHIRP Chip Package

Humminbird Helix 5 G2 CHIRP fish finder combo
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Estimated Price:  $310

The Hummingbird Helix has a 5-inch multi-view display with a tilt mount included. Expandable SD memory allows for additional waypoint and map storage.

You’ll get built-in GPS capabilities, Humminbird’s 2D low-power sonar system, SwitchFire detailed bottom charting, both wide and narrow beam configurations, and a powerful 4000W sweeping frequency CHIRP transducer capable of both down imaging up to 2500 feet and clear side imaging.

Humminbird has a nice little collaboration with LakeMaster and NOAA that allows them to include powerful base maps from the most trusted fishing sources. With Humminbird’s powerful Live Autocharting feature, you can record up to 8 hours of custom charting, all recorded seamlessly as you travel around.


12. Lowrance HDS-12 Live Fish Finder

Lowrance HDS 12 Live fish finder
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Estimated Price: $3,500

This unit comes in 7-inch, 9-inch, 12-inch, and 16-inch sizes. The features of this unit include StructureScan 3D, StructureScan HD, Mercury VesselView Link, and Lowrance’s Outboard Pilot software.

The Lowrance HDS-12 Live is fully capable of integrating with your mobile device via WiFi connectivity and touts the most advanced fish-finding technology to ever hit the market thus far.

The sonar is in a proprietary color scheme that utilizes high-visibility contrast to enhance the usability of its advanced sonar capabilities. Speaking of sonar, this unit does it all, from down and side sonar to full 3D and HD scanning, the quality is unmatched. Of course, it comes with a powerful 10Hz GPS system that supports WAAS, EGNOS, and MSAS. A huge advantage to using this fish finder is its capabilities of tethering together multiple sonar systems to create an all-encompassing 3D image scan. With the HDS-12 Live, you’ll be able to mount multiple different transducers on your watercraft and link them together to create a full sonar network.


13. Lowrance Elite TI2 W Med High Skimmer Transducer

Lowrance Elite 12 fish finder
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Estimated Price: $2,070

The Lowrance elite series comes with display sizes of 5-inch, 7-inch, 9-inch, and 12-inch. The Elite-12 TI is the premium level of the Lowrance lineup. Here you’ll find those make-or-break functions that are more than worth the money if you’re serious about fishing. Let’s start with one of the biggest difference-makers here – the transducer.

Lowrance has developed its own proprietary CHIRP-equipped transducer called the Med/High Skimmer. This transducer has quickly become a top choice among fishermen from both the entry-level to the most advanced fishing operations.

This HDI transducer utilizes the power of DownScan Imaging processing and its multi-beam Med/High CHIRP sonar to create powerful photo-like images of structures, fish coverage, and target differentiation.

Something that truly stands out with this particular imaging system is its ability to track and portray each individual fish in a tightly packed school of fish where other units may only be capable of showing a solid mass of blobs. Furthermore, using StructureScan HD, you’ll be able to identify very clearly where and what the fish are congregating around with ridiculous precision and image quality.

The actual display is a beautiful and touch-capable 12-inch monitor with Trackback software, allowing you to review historical data no longer displayed on the unit. This allows you to easily compare and return to areas of interest and since the Elite TI comes with intuitive navigation tools, you’ll be finding and saving the locations of each and every one of the best fishing spots!

The system as a whole is highly connective with full mobile phone integration via WiFI and Bluetooth connectivity. You’ll have access to MotorGuide Xi5 trolling motor software, C-MAP Genesis updates, Power-Pole Anchors, SonicHub 2 marine audio, and more. Furthermore, your system can connect with NMEA 2000 to provide instant access to engine monitoring software, waypoint location sharing, and SmartSteer trolling navigation.

It’s important to note that there are smaller and less expensive Elite models available, but some may lack the features of the larger units, such as the Elite 5 TI not having MotorGuide control.


14. Lowrance Hook Reveal

lowrance hook reveal 7 inch fish finder
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Estimated Price: $270-$935

The Lowrance Hook Reveal is the newer model of the popular Hook-2. This model is an improvement though across the board.   The Reval comes in display sizes of 5-inch, 7-inch, and 9-inch. These units utilize the latest SolarMAX high-resolution screens. One of the most intuitive and customizable experiences ever offered in a fish finder, the Reveal was designed around the idea of automatic adjustments.

There are two transducers offered for the reveal which are the SplitShot, and Triple Shot. The TripleShot is the larger traducer and provides DownScan, SiseScan, and CHIRP.

The Reveal comes with very easy-to-use navigational tools including Navionics, GPS plotter, pre-loaded C-MAPs, and a birds-eye view of 1-foot contour lines on over 4000 different bodies of water in the US.

With the Reveal you choose your screen size, transducer type, install, and the unit will automatically adjust its configurations to best match the conditions and type of fishing you’re currently doing. This happens without the need for human intervention.

The SplitShot transducer is a 2-in-1 sonar package that utilizes both CHIRP sonar technology and Lowrance’s advanced DownScan imaging. These work together to form a comprehensive and complete image of all the swimming creatures, bait balls, and structures under the waves.

If the side scan feature is not important for the type of fishing being done I would recommend the SplitShot transducer as it is a smaller transducer. Sometimes large traducers spray water while running if not mounted high enough on the boat.


15. Raymarine Axiom With RealVision 3D and RV-100 Transducer Package

Raymarine Axiom with real vision transducer fish finder package
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Estimated Price: $1,250-$1,550

The Raymarine Axiom is available in either 7-inch, 9-inch, or 12-inch displays. The features include RealVision 3D image processing, SideVision, DownVision, 3D fish finder, and powerful CHIRP sonar. This is really one of the most feature-rich technologically advanced units on the market today.

It’s powered by a quad-core processor running on the Lighthouse 3 operating system.  This multi-touch interface is by far one of the highest resolutions and best overall looking screens I’ve seen in fish finders.

The RV-100 transducer is a CHIRP enabled 600W monster with the option to use a dual beam 50/200kHz frequency configuration. This unit is capable of displaying sonar imaging from the side, underneath you, and in the RealVision format all on the same screen!

The Axiom fishfinder comes with full mobile integration via WiFi connectivity that allows you to transfer and save data and also control most of the features on the unit itself from your smartphone.

You’ll also get Navionics+ charting programs that cover over 20,000 bodies of water in the US and Canada.

Worthwhile mentioning, this thing is absolutely insane when it comes to functionality. You can watch Netflix, stream Spotify, integrate with drones or security cameras, and add more radar functionalities. This is truly a full-service boat media hub that so happens to be highly effective at finding fish! If you don’t mind paying a premium for a beautiful and powerful technological upgrade for your precious watercraft, this is the fish finder for you!


16. Humminbird PiranhaMax 4 DI Down Imaging

Humminbird PiranhaMax Down Imaging fish finder
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Estimated Price: $160-$170
Not as well known as Garmin but arguably of similar quality, Humminbird’s PiranhaMax is a neat little 4.3 inch fish finder. This particular unit focused on downward imaging and touts an impressive 2400w peak power output. Dual-beam down imaging capable of looking down up to 600 feet in a narrow or wide beam angle configuration. There is also the Piranhamax PT which is a protable fish finder that comes in a back where the transducer can mount the the back of a small boat or kayak using a suction cup. It does need to be connected to an external 12 volt marine battery.

Humminbird’s Fish ID+ makes spotting fish a breeze and since there are only 4 buttons, this unit is extremely user-friendly. To make matters even better, its equipped with dual beams, allowing for a fantastically wide range of down imaging.


17. Deeper Pro+ Smart Portable Castable Sonar

Deeper Pro Smart portable castable fish finder
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Estimated Price: $180-$300

Something a little different here is the Deeper Pro+ castable sonar unit, which is simple to use and extremely effective for those of you fishing from the bank or a kayak. It is capable of casting out 330 feet and scanning to depths of 260 feet The deeper app can store and share information with ease. Bass Pro Shops has the deeper smart sonar with CHIRP.

Like the title suggests, you attach this to your fishing pole, cast it out into the water, and then using the power of WiFi, you obtain all of that sweet information regarding the whereabouts of those pesky fish. But wait, there’s more!

This bad boy has built-in GPS and will automatically build contour maps for your viewing pleasure. Figure out where your favorite lures will get lost BEFORE casting them into oblivion. Of course, you’ll also get depth data, water temperatures, and several other tidbits of important information.

If you buy the gift kit, you’ll get a night cover that lights up your fish finder, a Gerber multi-tool, a tactical-looking smartphone holder, and a nice little carry bag.


Modern Fish Fish Finder Technology

Fish finders have come a long way over the years and now they’re packed with tons of extra features. Some are vital to a fishing trip and some simply to make the trip more enjoyable. When shopping for a new fish finder, it’ll be helpful to understand the following terms. Some of these are fantastic additions to a fish finder that you may really appreciate having. Others simply drive up the price of the unit with features you may not actually need. It’s important to keep in mind that some of the following terms may have other names signifying similar technologies that are branded by different manufacturers.

GPS/Navigation

If you have a cell phone with Google Maps then you know what this does. GPS-equipped fish finders allow you the freedom to ditch the distracting cell phone without ditching your trusty navigation tools.

My Furuno split fish finder navigation diplay being used in Alaska

Satellite Radio

Simply put, new age fish finders are including satellite radios to ensure you’ve got access to your favorite stations despite fishing out in the middle of nowhere. We all know that one spot in the lake that seems to have the most fish but is in between two massive hills that block the radio towers. With satellite radio, you won’t need to rely on towers any longer.

Chart Plotting

Chartplotters are handy little tools that are entirely location-based. It’ll show your current location, past locations, historical depth readings, contours, and depending on the chart plotting software installed. These are especially handy in charting specific fishing routes, setting waypoints, marking things of interest or hazards, and remembering hot fishing spots. Recently, chart plotting systems have been aiding in filtering historical information too.

StructureScan

With the implementation of a 3D capable transducer, StructureScan software builds a three-dimensional topographical image of the seafloor. This provides significantly more information about the underwater landscape than a traditional 2D imaging processor. With this feature, you’ll better understand where the fish are located and what they’re hanging out next to. Structure limbs, rocks, caverns, etc. can be viewed. StructureScan is actually trademarked by Lowrance. There are many other similar features implemented by other manufacturers by other names such as the Garmin RealVu 3-D.

Bottom Discrimination

Kind of similar to StructureScan, this allows the fish finder to display the actual makeup of the bottom and determine whether its mud, sand, gravel, or rock. This works by analyzing the strength of the bounces from your transducer to determine hardness. This comes in handy when picking fishing locations, often certain types of fish live on different bottom types.

AutoChart

Features like this can be named many different things, such as Hummingbirds Autochart Live. These allow you to create an entire real-time chart based on the sonar readings to create your own personal detailed view of the bottom. Furthermore, you can use this tool to compare historic maps with real-time data to determine changes and shifts such as a new depression. Maps that are more accurate can be made and compared to look for good fishing spots.

SwitchFire

This is a special image post-processing system that filters out the “noise” in a sonar image. Simply put, this makes the image clearer and easier to gather important information from. This system can also help to process images being interfered with by turbulence.

Post-Gain Processing

A handy little software trick that automatically adjusts the entire image, even historical data, with your new display settings. Traditionally, if you changed a setting on your display, you’d have to wait for new data to pop up before the unit uses your new settings, but with post-gain processing, the unit automatically converts all existing information according to the new configuration.

History Scroll Back

Simply put, this allows you to backtrack over previous data your fish finder has displayed but no longer shows on the screen. Handy for comparing different fishing holes and comparing chart plotter data.

Split-Screen and Four-Way Viewing

Self-explanatory here. Your display will allow you to set up multiple partitions on the screen to display different data sets and monitoring systems.

Wi-Fish

For our social media fiends out there, Wi-Fish utilizes a black-box sounder and pairs this with your transducer and your smartphone to give you full fish finder capabilities in the palm of your hand, ready to share to social media! No more lame photos of the screen of your fish finder, upload high-quality real-time screenshots and share data of your fishing trip to your pals! As a final note, Wi-Fish also lets you scroll back up to 60 seconds on your smartphone, letting you analyze data that may have already disappeared from your fish finders display.


Fish Finder Basics

Fish finders are an evolutionary piece of sonar technology that was originally found in the form of a fathometer. The fathometer was widely used for navigation, displaying the water depth, and other general oceanographic information. The root word of the fathometer, the fathom is a unit of measurement for water depth.

Fathometers worked by transforming electrical pulses into sound waves via an underwater transducer (AKA Hydrophone) and using the reflected sound waves to record data, such as size, composition, shape, depth, location, movement direction, etc. The reflection data is gathered using some pretty complex math equations, which we’ll talk about more in-depth in the next section.

The original fathometer used for recreational purposes used a rotating ray of light at the edge of a circle which flashed with every echo received, which is how it showed the user depth. The faster the flash, the closer the bottom was to the boat. In bright light on a sunny day, this was terribly difficult to utilize and to make matters worse, if the waters were rough, they were nearly unusable due to accuracy issues. Furthermore, they gave off brief quick flashes indicating fish, but a quick couple of flashes was all you got in terms of fish finding functionality.

Some really smart oceanography scientists (anglers at heart) realized they could use similar technology to find the location of the creatures swimming under them and display them onto a screen with a limited amount of tracking over time, thus, the modern-day “fish finder” is born.

My Furuno fish finder and navigation display used in Alaska

How Fish Finders Physics

This section will be a bit technical, so if you don’t care about the math and science behind fish finders, you could skip this section! If you’d like to learn more about fish finders as to better interpret their data and set yourself apart from the weak anglers, read on!

Starting with math, fish finders use this approximate equation to determine the speed of their manufactured sound waves through water: C = T – T^2 + S + D.

C is the speed of sound (m/s)

T is the temperature in Celsius of the water

S is the salinity per mile (amount of salt in the water)

D is the depth of the water currently being measured

A modern-day fish finder will re-record and calculate this data up to 40 times per second and chart this data on a graph.

We mentioned that the fish finder is sending sound waves through the water to determine the distance and position of fish and the seafloor. How sensitive (the frequency of sound waves) will determine the amount of location accuracy. Using a higher frequency will result in much faster display times and more accurate and more detailed displays, however, higher frequencies penetrate matter with less efficiency, making lower frequency superior for extreme depths. Most instances of commercial fishing such as deep-sea trawling use an optimum range of frequencies in the 50-200kHz, making their display a bit less detailed than what you’d use to go bass fishing.

When looking at the graphical display of your fish finder, it’s important to note that what is in the middle of the screen isn’t always what is directly under your boat. Instead, the x-axis is actually showing time, meaning the left portion of the graph is what your transducer has already passed over and recorded. What’s directly under your transducer is at the far right in most units.

Keeping this in mind, lower-end units fail to track this data accurately at high speeds. If you’re traveling at high rates of speed, the graph may lack data and will be less accurate, creating imaging distortion. Image distortion is heavily based on the speed of your vessel versus the update rate of the fish finder. This means that if you plan on locating fish while on the move, you’ll need to opt for a fish finder that has a high refresh rate, close or at 40 refresh rates per second.

Another interpretation tip includes something called “fish arches”. The newer more advanced units are getting better at solving this problem, but most units on the market today still suffer from fish arches. In a nutshell, a fish arch is shown on the fish finders display as an odd arch off the bottom of the seafloor and not an actual fish icon. This happens due to a fish entering the leading edge of the sonar beam, activating a display pixel, and recognizing there is something there.

As the fish moves towards the center of what your sonar is recording, the distance from the fish to the bottom of your boat decreases, tricking your fish finder into thinking the depth is reducing and that the boat is nearing the seafloor. As you pass over the fish, the sonar begins to display a drop-off as the fish gets further away from the bottom of your boat, and voila, you have an awkward arch displayed on your fish finders screen!

Fish arches can happen frequently when there are large numbers of fish all gathered up together or there is a school of tightly packed baitfish. To identify whether or not there really is some kind of structure underneath you or it’s fish, you’ll have to pay close attention to the thickness of the lines given to you on the display. Schools of fish will usually display a very thin line around the arch that otherwise should be thick if it really was the seafloor.

As a last little tip for interpretation, some fish finders are capable of picking up on your fishing line and the lures attached to them. You may notice slim lines falling from the top to the bottom, and you guessed it, that’s the path of your gear! In optimal temperatures and water oxygen levels, you can use this to determine the depth of your lure set.

Fish Finding Power

I’ve mentioned how important the frequency at which your fish finder operates in before, but let’s go ahead and expand on that so you can find the perfect unit for your situation.

A quick recap of what I mentioned before, the higher the frequency, the higher the detail your fish finder will offer, but high frequencies cannot penetrate as deep as lower frequencies, decreasing their range.

High frequencies = less range and area of view but offer higher definition

Low frequencies = higher range and more area of view but at a cost of lower definition

For shallow-water angling less than 200 feet, I’d choose higher frequencies such as 200kHz to 800kHz, and for depths exceeding 200 feet, I’d recommend 80kHz or even lower, at 50kHz for extremely deep fishing.

Fishfinders can come in a variety of frequency capable modes, including single-band, dual-band, multi-band, or broadband CHIRP systems.

Single-frequency fish finders will likely be cheaper but only offer one frequency, meaning you should purchase this particular unit for a particular type of fishing and depth.

Dual-band equipped fish finders typically have a high and a low setting, letting you switch between two general levels, offering more of a range in the depths your fish finder will excel in. Some of these may also transmit in both available frequencies at the same time, offering the best of both worlds simultaneously.

Multi-band fish finders will either have several presets you can choose from, giving you a wide variety of choices or they will allow you to specifically choose a frequency, giving you ultimate fine-tuning control over your fish finders transducer.

Compressed High-Intensity Radar Pulse (CHIRP) systems use a linear sweeping method that gradually increases the frequency to find incredible detail at the most efficient frequencies possible. Think of this as an automatic adjusting style of the fish finder. An example of this would be a sweep from 40 to 80kHz, 120 to 250kHz, 400 to 800kHz, and so on. These are best used for extreme depths, such as 10,000 feet.

CHIRP fish finders actually utilize and send less total peak energy than other fish finders, however, their modulated wide-band pulses are much longer in duration and can put up to 50x more energy through the water. CHIRP-equipped devices use digital pattern matching and signal processing to achieve much greater resolution levels than their non-CHIRP counterparts and have the ability to target individual fish at great depths that are only inches apart from each other. Most fish finders without CHIRP will identify groups of fish as one solid mass, but a CHIRP-equipped unit can identify each and every fish separately, giving you an accurate estimation of how many fish are available and where each one is specifically.

Another important aspect of a fish finder is the wattage or overall peak power capability of the unit. The measurement you’ll see is in watts RMS (root mean squared). The amount of power a fish finder is capable of producing will determine its ability to blow through silt and light debris, achieve greater depth ranges and identify specific targets.

Inland lake fishing only necessitates roughly 200W while anything less than deep blue fishing would likely only need roughly 500W. Deep-sea fishing may require 1000W or more to reach the required target depths.

Finding the perfect frequency, whether it be a single frequency unit for the weekend lake dweller or a CHIRP-equipped monstrosity, and pairing it with the proper wattage level is crucial for an optimum fishfinding experience.

Directional Targeting

Yet another specification you’ll need to widely study and pay attention to before you take the plunge on a new fishfinding unit is the directional area of view the fish finder is capable of. Some fish finder transducers have 360-degree capabilities, but of course, those are the more expensive options and many people may not need that.

Side imaging utilizes thin beams of sonar to scan 180-degrees roughly 240 feet left and right of your watercraft. This aids the fish finders computer chip in rendering a more accurate picture of the seafloor.

Down imaging is pretty self-explanatory and what most typical fish finders do. These shoot sonar waves down from their mounting point to create an image of what’s underneath your watercraft.

360 Imaging is basically side imaging on steroids. This is especially useful for net casting as you’re able to avoid potential snags and mark structures hidden just beneath the surface in any direction of your transducer.

Something popular you’ll likely come across when comparing the specifications of units is the “beamwidth” or “cone angle”. Simply put, this is how wide the beam is that is coming out of your transducer and gathering that sweet honey hole of information.

Fully explaining beam angle would really be better suited in a guide of its own, so I won’t go there for now. However, I will provide some tips and tricks here to help you get on your way!

A narrow beam angle is best used for specific locations, such as wreck and structure fishing. A beam angle of 9 to 15 degrees makes for incredibly focused detail due to the sonar energy being cast into one small area, creating a higher resolution picture. This helps define edges and barriers the structures may contain, making lure placement much easier. With a narrow beam, you’re sacrificing the total area scanned for higher detail, which makes finding fish on the move a more difficult task.

A wider beam angle greatly raises your chances of picking up fast-moving fish or finding fish while you’re motoring around. Wide beams such as one in the range of 40 to 45 degrees are excellent for fishing tournaments as they greatly impact how quickly you find pockets of fish. Mixed with an extremely powerful transducer (high wattage) and a low frequency, these are among the best at generally spotting fish and locating a potential sweet spot. The downside to using a wide-angle is that structures aren’t as crisp looking, making edges less definable and things lying on the bottom a total blur.

A medium beam angle, such as something in the 20 to 30-degree area, makes for a decent middle ground of detail and coverage. You’ll sacrifice pinpoint details that will make edges of structures appear slightly blurred and you won’t be able to cover as much ground as a wide-angle, but you’ll essentially get the best of both worlds scenario.

Beam angle, frequency, and power all work together to create the picture you receive on your display and to help you find productive waters, so it’s important to understand all three of them and choose something that fits your style of fishing. All three of these components need to match up and play to each other’s strengths. To do this effectively, you need to plan ahead and have a rough idea of what type of fishing you’re going to be doing, how deep those fish will be, and how difficult it will be to find them.

For example, using highly penetrative frequencies such as 50kHz with a low-powered wide beam wouldn’t make much sense because the frequency would be best used for deeper water while a low-powered wide beam wouldn’t be capable of delivering much detail at great depths.

If you’d just like an end-all-be-all piece of advice unless you’re competing or very serious about fishing, I’d recommend you to just get a 20 or 25-degree cone angled-down imaging transducer and be done with it.

Boat Transducers

Aside from power, frequency, and beam angle, we have to consider how the construction of our watercraft affects the efficiency of our transducer and vice versa. Many fish finders meant for recreational usage come with a transducer and most popular brands offer their fish finder units with a range of different transducers. For the higher-end and competitive-level gear, anglers generally purchase the fishfinding unit they want and pair it with a transducer of their choosing.

Thru-hull units

These can be challenging to install properly, but once done, these offer some of the highest quality signals. Sailboats and displacement-powered boats can benefit from using in-hull mounted transducers because this creates less drag, which is important to a non-motorized boat. Fiberglass hulls generally not more than ⅝” thick work great with in-hull mounted transducers as well.

In-hull units

These are units that don’t require actual water contact and instead are installed inside the hull via glue, silicon, or epoxy. These won’t be a good choice if your watercraft has steel or a cored hull and for the most part, in-hull units are best used in solid fiberglass boats.

Transom-mount units

These units mount on the transom of your boat (the back) and are usually adjustable, allowing you to change the angle on the bracket. These mounts are secured by screws and/or bolts and although easy to install, they will feel the full force of the water passing by them. Transom mount transducers are optimal for planning hulls less than 28’.

Trolling motor compatible units

These can either be mounted on the outside of the trolling motor or inside the propeller hub and can be either clamped for easy-to-remove access or permanently installed.

Fish Finder Networking

In the world of fish finders, you have many options when it comes to functionality and networking capabilities, thus making it important to plan out how you’ll be utilizing your tech, which boat it’ll be implemented inside of, and what functions you need.

Standalone fish finders

It shows the basic sonar display which tells you if there are fish under you or not. Also, depth and water temp can be shown. There are no fancy features like music, GPS, or radar. These are perfect for those of you who already have other products fulfilling your needs and the last piece to your setup is a simple fish-finding solution. These are among the cheapest units on the market and some of them come as standalone units with the option of adding more components later.

Combination fish finders

A traditional fish finder that has a couple of other handy features, such as GPS or a chart plotter. These are probably the most sensical solution for most people who own mid-size boats.

Fully networked systems

These are all-inclusive tech products for the true boating and fishing enthusiast. These typically have all the bells and whistles and are compatible with multiple displays, smartphone integration, chart plotting, black box duties, Bluetooth and WiFi compatibility, satellite radio, radar, GPS, etc. If you really hate having multiple pieces of equipment to fondle around with and are tight on space, a well-networked fish finder may be the perfect addition for a clean all-in-one setup.

Multiple-display networked fish finders

These are perfect for larger vessels as they are capable of providing you with a multitude of easy-to-read data all at once, without the need to flip through channels or fumble with buttons to find the right screen.

Furthermore, as a final option in the mix, there are portable fish finders. These are not nearly as feature-rich or accurate as a full-blown properly installed fish finding unit, however, they are great for those of you who travel often and rent multiple different watercraft. These include a display unit, mount, transducer, and battery pack in an all-in-one form factor. Some of these simply use an easy-to-mount system, while others actually float in the water next to your watercraft.

Fish Finder Displays

Nearly all of the fish finders on the market today with a display are using an LCD panel with lots of specifications that may be difficult to understand if you’re not technologically inclined.

First and foremost, you’ll need to make a choice between grayscale and color right off the bat. Color displays are automatically going to run you more money, but offer much greater detail and increased accuracy by displaying varying levels of color for varying levels of density.

Next, you’ll need to choose a display size. Typically, fish finders range in the 3.5” to 20” size range. For simple single duty fish finders, small sizes are perfectly fine and will get the job done, but if you’re choosing a fish finder that displays lots of information, you may find that a small screen becomes quickly cluttered and difficult to read. Some multi-functional fish finders may also display information in a split-screen configuration, making those super small screens nearly useless in this regard.

Simrad Fish finders on a sunseeker yacht

LCD panels are constructed of grids of pixels which are tiny dots that are individually color controlled when an electrical current passes through them. The more pixels an LCD display contains per square inch, the higher resolution the screen will be, meaning it will be easier to read, brighter, and have better picture quality.

The number of vertical pixels will determine the depth resolution while the number of horizontal pixels will determine how much data is shown on the screen before new data replaces it, pushing the old data off the screen.

High-quality displays are a heavy “get what you pay for” type of specification. Cheap fish finders have likely cut costs so low due to having very low-resolution LCD displays, while expensive fish finders utilize the leading-edge technology behind LCD displays to deliver an incredibly high resolution.

So, does it matter how good your display looks and should you spend the extra dough to get more pixels? In most cases, it simply depends on what you require from your fish finder. A higher resolution display has many advantages and will enable you to see smaller details, better estimate distances, aid you in finding the perfect lure depth, determine game fish versus baitfish, etc.

If you’re fishing for sport and you’re actually competing against other people, having an ultra-high-definition fish finder could literally be the difference between winning and losing. On the flip side, if you’re just out on the lake to enjoy some brews just want to know if it’s worth dropping your lure in a specific spot or not, a high-definition LCD display might be a waste of money.

High-resolution taglines don’t always signify a quality display, though. Some manufacturers have phony high pixel density while sacrificing contrast quality, making that incredibly high amount of pixels utterly pointless. Low contrast means your screen will be difficult to use in bright light, so it doesn’t matter if you have a high-resolution screen if you can’t see it! You’ll need to pay attention to both pixel density and contrast levels, ensuring that not only does it meet your resolution requirement but the resolution is actually usable and sharp looking.

Freshwater Transducer vs Saltwater Transducer?

I mentioned before that the composition of the water you’re operating in changes the game in terms of fish finding gear, let’s dive a bit deeper into that!

Obviously, salt water is full of sodium chloride. When water is saturated with salt, it’s called salinity, and salinity adds a great deal of density to the water. Since fish finders work by turning electrical impulses into sound waves and then listening to hear the bounce back of these sounds waves, it’s no surprise that denser water makes the job of a fish finder more difficult.

Furthermore, the temperature of salt water also plays a major role. The warmer the salt water, the less dense it is compared to colder waters. This is why your fish finder being able to calculate the temperature of the water or be calibrated accordingly is important to achieve the most accurate information.

You may find on the market some fish finder transducers that are specifically labeled for salt or fresh water. The truth is, that you can use either transducer in either type of water, however, the penetration levels of the frequencies your transducer is using will vary. A transducer that performs extremely well at high frequencies and relatively deep may not perform nearly as well when dipped into salt water. Conversely, a transducer that you’ve managed to get working well in salt water may have attributes or a calibration that is overkill for fresh water. Many of the labelings you see on specific transducers really just relate to how power-hungry it is. They may have similar models where the only difference is the amount of power and price tag.

As a general rule of thumb, your super-low power-consuming transducers will not perform nearly as well as power-hungry models in salt water. On the flip side, buying a high power output capable transducer for use in freshwater may simply be a waste of money and if you’re kayaking, powering it off of a standalone battery cell, it may be a waste of energy, reducing how much time it will operate until you need a fresh battery or a recharge.

At the end of the day, transmission efficiency through salt water and fresh water are basically negligible. If you know you’ll be spending 100% of your time fishing in one or the other, sure, opt for a unit that specifically performs well in that type of water, but for the most part, how well your fish finder and transducer works is going to come down to power and frequency versus depth. If you’re fishing in shallow salt water, there is no reason why you can’t use a “freshwater” fish finder, it’ll work just fine.

4 thoughts on “Boat Anchoring Types and Techniques”

    • I use the size A3 anchor ball to retrieve the anchor for a 32-foot boat. This is a good size to receive anchors from 15-30 pounds even when lots of chains being used. For smaller anchors, a smaller ball can be used.

  1. Great review. I must say that I like all of those mentioned above, I’m finding anchor ropes your post is really useful for me. I have been thinking about Braided Nylon Anchor Rope but why isn’t this rope used for windlasses?

    Reply
    • Glad you found the review helpful, you can use braided nylon with a windlass. Some people prefer 3-strand to make the splice connection. A fid is needed for braided nylon but it can be spliced as well.

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